PARISH OF FETTERESSO. PRESBYTERY OF FORDOUN, SYNOD OF ANGUS AND MEARNS From A Statistical Account of the County of Kincardineshire, 1842 by THE REV. GEORGE THOMSON, MINISTER. I - TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY II - CIVIL HISTORY III - POPULATION 1V - INDUSTRY V. - PAROCHIAL ECONOMY I - TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY. Name: In ancient records, the name is variously written Foderesach, Fethiresach, Fetheressow, etc. An eminent Celtic scholar states, that Fiathair, Fiatha and ar) signifies lay land, or wild and uncultivated land; Feathar (Fea and, ar), boggy land. Essach, a waterfall, cataract, cascade - so that Feather-esso seems to signify the uncultivated, or marshy, or boggy land, in the vicinity of the waterfall. There is a beautiful waterfall on a small scale, near the burying-ground; but none of any considerable extent in the parish. Situation, Extent and Boundaries: The parish is about 10 miles in length, between 5 and 6 in breadth, and comprehends 24,914 acres. It is bounded on the south by the parish of Dunnottar; on the west, by Glenbervie, Durris, and Maryculter; on the north, by Maryculter, and Banchory Devenick; and on the east, by the German Ocean. Its southern extremity is 115 miles north of Edinburgh, and 15 south of Aberdeen. Topographical Appearance: Its surface is irregular, but not mountainous, presenting a landscape, varying from the most pleasing to the most bleak. The new town of Stonehaven, the banks of the Carron and Cowie through the whole of their course, the grounds adjoining Fetteresso Castle, Ury. Rickarton, and Netherley, may be considered as belonging to the former. Nor is there wanting at Elsick, Muchalls, and Cowie, and in the bold rocky coast, much that is also pleasing to the eye. Most of the other districts, particularly the great common of Cowie, in the centre of the parish, are bleak, even where cultivation is carried on upon a regular and approved system. But there is, in some districts, great want of wood and enclosures, and, of course, of shelter, and much mossy, wet, and bleak land. The climate must have been improved by the draining of land, which has been carried to a great extent. It cannot be called either decidedly dry or wet. Nor is it unhealthy. Even in the most wet and mossy districts, many reach extreme old age. In no quarter are there wanting persons of above eighty years, and there are several cases of individuals above ninety. Hydrography: Over the parish generally, there are abundant springs. From Ury to the east. some are strongly chalybeate. Many years ago, a well of this quality on the lands of Arduthie, no vestige of which now remains, was much frequented, the water having been considered a valuable tonic. There was a kind of lake, called Loch Dews, or the Lily Loch, near this well. It is understood to have been, in ancient times, of considerable extent. But now very little vestige of it remains. The principal streams are the Carron and Cowie. The former divides the parish from Dunnottar for about five miles, entering the sea at Stonehaven. The latter has a similar course and termination. The burn of Muchalls arises at the western boundary, and that of Elsick within it, both flowing direct to the sea. The first two, though not large, are not inconsiderable streams; and occasionally become much flooded, particularly the Cowie, which, having its sources in the Grampians, and being, joined by many rivulets, has often occasioned damage to the property on its banks. The Carron, too, in 1829 and 1836, inundated part of the town of Stonehaven, to the depth of several feet. The course of all these is from west to east, and nearly parallel to each other. Geology and Mineralogy: The prevailing rock on the coast is gneiss. On the Cammachmore estate, there is a rock of porphyry, consisting of fragments of white foliated - imbedded in red compact feldspar. A dike of this mineral traverses the sandstone, on the north side of the bay of Stonehaven. There are quarries of it in the parishes of Dunnottar and Arbuthnott. At a short distance south of the harbour of Stranathro, there are two gneiss rocks, through which the waves, by which they are washed at high tides, have excavated two magnificent arches, of about 80 feet high by fifty wide. Near this spot there is a mass of sandstone. Its contact with the gneiss is not visible, but the neighbouring gneiss is intersected by small veins of sandstone. This is the most northerly locality of sandstone in the county of Kincardine. On the farm of Mill of Muchalls, a dike of red compact feldspar traverses the gneiss. Its direction is east and west; its thickness some hundred yards; and its length about a quarter of a mile. At both extremities of the dike, its junction with the gneiss is laid bare. At the west extremity the gneiss, as it approaches the dike, passes into mica slate; whereas, at the east extremity, the gneiss, in immediate contact with the dike, undergoes no change whatever. On the coast, contiguous to the farm of Blackhills, the gneiss abruptly rises from an angle of 45 degrees, to a position perfectly vertical. It is highly charged with oxide of iron, and very much waved. After continuing from this point, for some miles up the bed of the water of Cowie, the gneiss passes into mica slate. The Garron Point is a rock of an intermediate character, between serpentine and trap; and of a light green colour. It passes into chlorite slate. A variety of veins of that species of iron ore called haematites, intersect the rock. It is of a black colour and very rich. The veins vary from four to eighteen inches in thickness. Some of the larger veins send out ramifications into the contiguous rock, part of them shifted (in the language of geologists), that is, broken, or forced out of their original direction. The rock, at its junctions with the veins, undergoes no change, either in colour or hardness. A branched dike of compact feldspar intersects this rock. In the two adjoining bays, there are extensive nests of pipe-clay in the gneiss rock, immediately under the sand. On the south side of the harbour of Cowie, within high water-mark, there is in the sandstone a bed of clay slate, ten feet thick. On this coast, are found beautiful pebbles of red jasper, and hornstone porphyry, which take a high polish. They have been transported by the waves from the conglomerate rocks, south of the bay of Stonehaven. In the district of the parish called the Brae of Fetteresso, there are rocks of puddingstone, and of sandstone; and on the lands of Rickarton and Muchalls, though the prevailing stone is gneiss, granite of excellent quality is found in many places. Zoology: All the varieties of land and sea birds enumerated in the reports of the adjoining parishes are to be found here. At Fetteresso Castle, there is a rookery, perhaps the most extensive in the county. The hill district is well furnished with grouse. Black game of late years have much increased, while snipe, plover, wild duck, teal, and woodcock, on account of the extended drainage of marshy ground, have decreased in number. Partridges are every where found, and pheasants at Fetteresso and Ury. There are roe deer in the woods, and hares in every quarter. II - CIVIL HISTORY The first distinct records of this parish are connected with the introduction into it of the families of Fraser and Keith. It would' appear that, for a long time, these families possessed the whole property of the parish. Family of Fraser: The first person of any note of the name of Fraser, mentioned in Scottish annals, is Simon Fraser, who married the eldest daughter of Walter, the first great steward of Scotland, grandson of Banquo, Thane of Lochaber, and the paternal ancestor of the royal family of Stuart. In the reign of David I., a Simon Fraser, who seems to have been a person of much consequence, left a grand-daughter, and heir, who was married to " Herveus, filius Philippi Mariscalli," father of Sir John de Keith, and the ancestor of the Earls Marischal. For many years, the family held high offices in church and state. In the reign of Alexander III, we find a Fraser " Viscomes de Traquair" The first of the race connected with this parish, of whom notice is taken in the history of the country, is Sir Alexander Fraser, who was nearly related to King Robert Bruce, (Archdeacon Barber says, the King and Sir Alexander were cousins in a near degree), and was married to his sister the Lady Mary. He was one of the principal instruments of settling the Bruce on the throne. He opposed with great success the powerful Cummines, reduced the north to obedience, and was signalised by his bravery at the battle of Bannockburn. In reward for his services, he obtained from that great Prince many gifts of lands in different counties, particularly in the shires of Aberdeen and Kincardine, some of them no doubt upon his own resignation, since it would appear that long before this period he had great influence in those districts of the country. Among these gifts, were the lands and forest of Craigie, in the thanedom of Cowie, and afterwards, it would appear, the whole thanedom, with many other lands. Sir Alexander held the office of Lord Chamberlain from 1325 to 1329. He was slain in the battle of Duplin, on the 12th August 1332; and was succeeded by his eldest son John, who, it is said, left no issue but one daughter, who was wedded to Sir William de Keith the marischal. Robert, the son of William de Keith, and Margaret Fraser, obtained from King Robert II on 27th December 1376, a charter of the forest of Colly (Cowie), and the forest called the Forest del Month, with the lands of Ferachy, Glastolach, Cragy, and Clochensheill, which, of old, was part of the thanedom of Colly, and was resigned into the King's hands by William de Keith. (Reg. Mag. Sigilli, p. iii.) Another portion of the thanedom was inherited, it is said, by Sir William Fraser, the second son of the Lord Chamberlain, and ancestor of the house of Philorth, now worthily represented by the Lord Salton. On the 20th October 1413, William Fraser, Lord of Philorth, sold to William de Hay, Lord of Errol, and Constable of Scotland, all the " landis of' the baronyis of Cowy and Durryss, wid tenand and tenandyris, and service of the tenand.".1 This conveyance was confirmed by the Regent, Robert, Duke of Albany, on May 14, 1415. (Robertson's Ind. p. 160. Wood's Douglas's Peerage, Vol. i. p. 547). The Crown seems to have retained right to part of the thanedom, for on the 13th April 1363, David II granted to Margaret de Saint, Clair, Countess of Angus, an annuity of L.20 11 ex thanagio de Colly." That part of the property thus conveyed to the family of Errol, was called the Barony of Urie, and continued many years in the name of Hay. On failure of male issue, however, it returned again to the family, from which it came, about the year 1640, with the exception of those parts which were formerly disposed of by the Hays, to Bannerman of Waterton, ancestor of the present Sir Alexander Bannerman of Elsick, and to Burnett of Leys, ancestor to the present Sir Thomas Burnett of Leys, viz. the lands of Elsick and Muchalls. All the rest of the property was purchased by William, Earl Marischal, and by him, about 1647, sold to Colonel David Barclay, son to David Barclay of Mathers, and representative of that family.2 Parochial Registers: - The oldest record of the kirk-session is a register of baptisms and proclamations of banns of marriage beginning 2nd January 1620, and continuing, with occasional blanks, to 5th February 1643. The following table, although it may show the number of baptisms recorded, cannot be taken as giving an accurate account of the births in the parish. 1 620 - 65 baptisms - 26 marriages. 1625 - 23 - 23 1629 - 36 - 16 1635 - 51 - 16 1641 - 73 - 26 The oldest register of discipline, etc. begins 15th November1640, and goes on, with many interruptions, till May 1672. It contains the proceedings of the session, and an account of the collections and distributions of money for the poor. Among the proceedings of the session, there is recorded a solitary case of witchcraft, April 1659, the result of which, through the mutilation of the register, does not appear. The poor of the parish were divided into three classes, viz. beddels, those who were confined by infirmity; gangrels, who, although receiving parish aid, were allowed to beg from door to door; and considered persons, who received aid from the kirk-session, although not placed upon the regular poor's roll like the previous two classes. The number of the parish poor was, in the following years, 1656, - 8 beddels - 15 gangrels - 8 considered persons. 1661, - 9 - 20 - 16 1667, - 5 - 18 - 9 In the first of these years, the sum for their support amounted to L.130, 17s. 4d. Scots. There are no registers from 1672 to 1716. During the troubles in 1715, Mr Peter Rose intruded himself into the parish, during the incumbency of Mr Burn, and, when he departed from it, carried, it is said, the session books along with him, yea, also, the poor's box and its contents. Antiquities: - At no remote period, there were many Druidical remains in the parish, and some still exist. The vestiges of an old camp, (by some supposed to be Roman,) on a rising ground, called Re-dykes (Re-king), have attracted much notice. It is still almost entire, and occupies a space of 71 acres. It was fortified with a wall and ditch. At the distance of about three miles, and close to Stonehaven, there were to be seen, some years ago, remains of a camp, more distinctly Roman. The Romans, in their incursions to the north, seem to have proceeded from the Tay along the great valley of Strathmore, which runs parallel to the Grampian mountains, from Perth to Stonehaven. In this direction, at about twelve miles distance from each other, the stations they occupied appear to have been Strageth, Grassywalls, Meigle, Battledykes, Keithock, Fordoun, Stonehaven, Norman dykes, in the parish of Peterculter, a station also somewhere near to the burgh of Inverury, and Glenrnailen (called also Re-dykes,) in the vicinity of the source of the Ythan. By this course, it is supposed that Agricola, having, subdued the most southern parts of Scotland, led an army of 26,000 men, during tile seventh campaign, through the country of the Horesti (Angus), towards the north, and fought the great battle, 11 ad Montem Grampium" against the Caledonians, who mustered 30,000, and were led by their chief Galgacus. Various opinions have been entertained respecting the place where this great battle was fought. The late Professor Stuart of Marischal College, Aberdeen, (Transactions of the Society of the Antiquarians of Scotland, Vol. ii. Part 2, p. 289,) after adducing many circumstances in support of his opinion that the scene of it was here, observes, " Here (camp near Stonehaven) the Roman fleet was seen riding at anchor in the bay of Stonehaven, within less than a league of their camp, where no enemy could interrupt their mutual intercourse. Here Galgacus would see the fleet equally well from the hills above, and might justly be made to exclaim 'imminente nobis classe Romana;' and from this place Tacitus might properly say upon Agricola's retreat southward after the battle, " exercitum in fines Horestorum deducit.'" On this matter it is only remarked, that the entrenchment at Re-dykes is strongest towards the sea, with several outworks on that side, all evidence that the enemy was expected from that quarter; that along an adjoining hollow, towards the north-east called Monbois, (Celtic, the moor of death), and on a lower hill, called Kempstone hill, (Kemp, a fight,) many stones were scattered, and some of them large single ones on end; that on Cantlay hills, there is a large cairn which never was examined; that various pieces of armour, chariot wheels, etc. have been found in the vicinity, some of which are now in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh, Marischal College, Aberdeen, and Fetteresso Castle; and that, in the neighbourhood of the camp at Stonehaven, many sepulchral urns were, not long ago, discovered, and near the cairn, in which they had been deposited, a stone pavement, on which, front the remains of ashes, it would appear that bodies had been burnt. In the second volume of the Transactions of the Society of Antiquaries, p. 462, Professor Stuart communicates the result of an examination of a tumulus opened near the seat of R. W. Duff, Esq. in this parish. The Professor conjectures that this may have been the place where Malcolm I. of Scotland was interred. In November 1837, there were discovered, about all hundred yards to the southward of the tomb last mentioned, another ancient burial-place, measuring 3 feet in length, 2 in breadth, and 20 inches in depth. It contained the remains of a human body, which had been laid on its right side, with the face towards the south. The limbs had been bent upwards, and it appeared that one of the leg bones had been broken near the middle. An urn about six inches in depth, and 28 in circumference, was found lying in the tomb, as if it had been folded in the arms of the corpse. Upwards of a hundred jet beads were discovered over the breast of the corpse, perhaps having formed ornaments on the edge of the urn. It may be only farther noticed here, that, on the top of a rock adjoining the sea at Cowie, there remain vestiges of a building, generally called the castle of Cowie. It must have been but of very limited dimensions, not fitted for the residence of the Thanes. Most likely, it served only as a place of refuge in danger. There are similar remains along the coast southward. Distinguished Families: - Many of the noble families3 of Scotland are descended from the Frasers, of whom notice has been taken. The estate of Durris, the last property belonging to them in this country, after being, for a considerable period, in the possession of the Mordaunts, Earls of Peterborough, came into the Gordon family, and was excambed for lands in the upper district of Banffshire, which are now the property of the Duchess Dowager of Richmond, as heiress of entail to her brother, George, last Duke of Gordon. Family of Marischal: - The family of Marischal, the history of which is well known, had their principal abode, for many generations at Fetteresso. To this place James II repaired, immediately after landing at Peterhead, in the year 1715. From that period may be dated the total downfall of a race, which had been conspicuous in the annals of the country, from the time of Malcolm II, who began his reign in 1104. About the year 1540, the family of Marischal was possessed of the greatest landed estate in Scotland, the rental of it amounting to 270,000 merks, or L.14,208, 6s. 8d. Sterling, and it was so situated, that, in travelling from the north point of Caithness to the borders of England, the Earl of Marischal could sleep (it has been said) every night on his own property. In latter times, it became much embarrassed; wadsetting, on every hand, almost close to the places of residence, having prevailed. Many were in existence even down to the time of sale by the York-Buildings Company in 1782. Family of Barclay of Ury: - Although the property of Ury did not come into possession of the family of Barclay until 1647, that family is of very long standing in the county of Kincardine. In the foundation charter of the Abbey of Arbroath, from William the Lion, 1178, - in conveying to that institution the lands of Mondynes, in the parish of Fordoun, it is said, "Dedi etiam eis unam carucatam terre in Monethyne super aquam de Bervyne, quam Willus de Munfort et Umfridus de Berkeley, et Walterus Scotus et Alanus, filius Symonis, et alii probi homines, mei per preceptum meum eis mensuraverunt." This is, perhaps, the earliest notice of the name, which was changed to Barclay in the fifteenth century. In 1351, the family became possessed of the estate of Mathers, in the southern district of the county, and retained it for nearly 300 years. No individual of this race has been so conspicuous as the author of the Apology for the Quakers. He cannot be claimed as a native of this parish, having been born in Morayshire, at the residence of his grandfather, Sir Robert Gordon of Gordonston, the historian of the house of Sutherland. He resided, however, at Ury, for the greater part of his life, and died there on the 3rd of August 1690, not having completed the forty-second year of his age. His body lies in the family burial ground, the most elevated spot on the property, in a small building, commonly called the Houff; in which are also interred the remains of his son, grandson, and great grandson, all bearing the same name. With regard to his religious system, there must be difference of opinion; but, there has been only one opinion, with respect to the extent of his erudition, the amiableness of his temper, and the continual beneficent tenor of his life. Mansion-Houses: - On the north bank of the Carron, the late Mr Duff partly rebuilt, and greatly extended the ancient abode of the family of Marischal, and Fetteresso Castle is now one of the most extensive and commodious places of residence in the north of Scotland. Adjoining it is a large park, in which are many trees of great size, and much thriving young wood, all enclosed, and kept in the best order. Ury, the seat of R. Barclay Allardice, Esq. is a mansion of moderate size. It was built by the family of Hay of Errol, and must have been originally intended for a place of defence. The walls are very thick, and every floor is arched with stone. It is situated on a steep bank of the Cowie. This house is the most striking object that meets the eye of a traveller from the south, as he approaches towards Stonehaven. The park is very extensive and the adjoining fields are in the highest state of cultivation. There are some venerable trees, much hard-wood, planted by former proprietors, which will soon be of great value, and much, planted by the present Mr Barclay, in a thriving state. Around a great part of the domain, a high wall of stone and lime has been built. This is, perhaps, one of the finest seats in any part of the country. About a mile west of Ury, and also on the north bank of the Cowie, is Rickarton, where is an excellent modern house, beautifully situated, but not having the advantage of a surrounding park. At Netherley, the property of George Silver, Esq. there is a large commodious house, and much has been done, under unfavourable circumstances, to improve and ornament the neighbourhood of it. At Muchalls, too, the property of the same gentleman, there is a venerable old house, already noticed as long the residence of the family of Burnett, Bart. of Leys. It is situated on a rising ground, near the sea, about four miles north of Stonehaven, and around it is a large tract of valuable land, generally kept in grass. Elsick, now belonging to the Rev. Dr Morison, for a long time the property and place of residence of the family of Bannerman, Bart. has a mansion-house of no great extent, surrounded with trees. There is a small house on the estate of Cowie, the property of William Innes, Esq. with a neat paddock and garden embowered in wood, close by the sea, immediately north of Stonehaven. At Newhall and Berryhill, there are good dwelling-houses. III - POPULATION Amount of population in 1755 return to Dr Webster, - 3082 1764 by an exact survey, - 3500 1790 do. - 3370 1801 by census, - 36S7 1811 do. - 4252 1821 do. - 4486 1831 do. - 5109 1841 do. - 5155 1V - INDUSTRY Agriculture: - Until after the year 1760, there was, in this district, little change in the system of agriculture from that which had been practised for many generations. In fact, no regular system was pursued, and the produce of the land must have been very little, in comparison to that which has since taken place, and which is to be principally attributed to the late Mr Barclay of Ury. By his sound judgement, undaunted resolution, and unfailing steadiness, a complete revolution in agriculture was effected, not only on his own estate in this parish, but through all the adjoining country. His system was, at the very first, singularly complete; for not many great real improvements have since been made upon it. The soil varies in the different districts. There is, indeed, every variety known in the country. The most productive is found in the eastern part of the lands of Fetteresso and Ury, the southern part of Cowie, and eastern of Muchalls. There is some good soil, too, on the Rickarton property, and around the house of Elsick. In other parts of the parish, it declines from moderate to the very worst. Even in the least naturally good, great industry is exercised, and improvement effected. To this, the extensive mosses in the western district contribute. Many settlers in their neighbourhood occupy themselves in preparing peats for sale in Stonehaven; and in carrying on this branch of industry, sustenance, often too poor indeed, must be provided for the horses employed. Year after year, moorland, to a limited extent, is reclaimed in the northern properties. Even when profit from fuel is not the object, waste land is coming gradually into cultivation particularly on the estate of Rickarton, which, of late years, has, through judicious management, risen more in rental than perhaps, in proportion to former value, any property in the country. Except on it, and part of the great common of Cowie, there is not now much uncultivated ground; the improvement of which is likely to be remunerating. Much has been done, and very much is still needed, in draining the land. Great attention is paid to the selection of grain for seed, and in procuring manure from Stonehaven and even from Aberdeen. Important aid in this respect arises from bone-dust, the use of which is, year after year, more extended. In many cases farm manure is not so well managed as it ought to be; and the opportunity, which might be extensively embraced of constructing dunghills on the excellent Meadowbank system, is neglected, or so conducted as to be ineffectual. Without the removal of the antiseptic principle by fermentation, moss remains, though mixed with animal manure, in its original state. Possessions vary greatly in extent. The highest rent paid by an individual tenant does not exceed L.450, and there are not many rents exceeding L. 200. A great part of the tenants have but one plough each. For some time past, but little wheat has been sown. This is year (1841) the extent was about forty acres. In the neighbourhood of Stonehaven, a good deal of land of a clayey description is occupied in raising beans. The principal grain crops are oats and barley. Of the former every species known in the country is sown, and change of seed frequently procured from other districts. The prices of grain being now principally regulated by weight; in several districts, where the soil is of an inferior quality, the cultivation of barley and Chester bear is discontinued, and oats, as more remunerating, substituted in their room. Many courses of rotation of cropping are in use. Among them, 1st, turnips, barley, grass, oats; 2nd, turnips, barley or oats, hay, pasture, oats; 3rd, turnips, barley or oats, hay, pasture, pasture, oats, oats. The second, five course shift, is the most prevalent. A considerable quantity of land is annually, in small lots, let to tradesmen and others residing in Stonehaven, by farmers in the neighbourhood of it, for raising potatoes. Much of this crop is sold by the tenants in the northern district at Aberdeen; and large quantities from every part of the parish are shipped for London, etc. Much, too, is used, both raw and steamed, as food for horses and cattle, and it forms the principal article in feeding many pigs. It is feared, it may be added, that it forms the principal article in the sustenance of the families, not only of the decidedly poor, but also of many tradesmen and labourers. Mr Robertson, in his Agricultural Report of the County of Kincardine, (1808), states the number of black-cattle in this parish 3050; horses then paying tax, 315; sheep, 3100; swine, 22. The number is now greatly increased, except in regard to hill pastured sheep, the number of which is diminished. Many horses are reared, but few possess particularly valuable properties. Some of the heritors and principal tenants have paid attention to the breeds of cattle. The late Mr Duff of Fetteresso preferred the West Highland, which he brought to a great size and weight; the late Mr Silver of Netherley had always an extensive stock of a superior class; and Mr Barclay of Ury is very eminent as a breeder of Teeswater or short-horned cattle, to be afterwards noticed. The cattle possessed by the tenantry in general are little to be commended. By far too many are reared. It would be of much advantage that the number were reduced at least a third; this would be better proportioned to the food that can be supplied, and prove more profitable to the possessor. Cattle are fattened for consumpt in the country, and the London market, which, for some years past, has been opened to this district by steamers and other vessels from Aberdeen; but by far the greater part of the turnip crop is consumed by cows and young stock, while the quantity eaten off the ground by sheep is yearly increased. Oat-sowing, even in favourable seasons, seldom commences until about the second week of March. Barley sometimes at this period, but generally later, occasionally not even until May. Many consider late preferable to early sowing, in regard to weight of crops. Reaping takes place at most uncertain periods, and not unfrequently the harvest labours are not over before the beginning of November.4 The greater part of the crops is cut down by a scythe, having two handles, which is considered as in every respect superior to that formerly in use. But the sickle is not altogether discontinued. Farm Buildings: -These were generally, in former times, of a very poor description. Year after year, however, new steadings have been erected, well adapted to the respective possessions, both as to family accommodation, and out-buildings. The number of thrashing-mills is continually increasing, the greater number having horse-power, many water, and one steam. Leases, Rent: - Leases, almost universally, endure for nineteen years. There are farms of considerable extent, - one of 80 acres imperial, the rent of which is L.3. 4s. per acre; and three of 200, 130, and 120, L.2. 5s.; several L1. 10s. to L.2; and from that sum every rate down to 5s. All of these rents are considered, taken in comparison with other districts of the country, high; and few of the tenantry pay them without the exercise of their own personal labour, while they live in a very plain and frugal manner. Attempts to obtain a correct statement of the produce of industry in so extensive a parish have failed. The average of barley crops in the better districts may be estimated at 5 quarters per acre; of oats, oats, 5H: in the inferior, barley, or Chester bear, 3H; oats 4. Very great crops have been raised, 18 bolls of wheat per acre, 12 to 14 bolls of oats, etc.; but averages are often overrated, as the experience of many a tenant has unfortunately proved, A considerable part of the best land is laid down in permanent pasture, particularly on the estates of Fetteresso, Ury, and Muchalls. It is let annually on the first and last of these, at rents of from L.2 to L. 4 per acre, to butchers, cattle-dealers, and frequently to farmers, who sell their hay crop, most injudiciously, and pay for pasture for their young stock. A very large sum is drawn for dairy produce. From the northern district, the Aberdeen market is weekly attended, for the sale of butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, etc. and from the southern, that of Stonehaven. There are dealers in these articles in several places, besides, within the parish. Almost every tenant now keeps pigs. Even in Stonehaven there are many. They are purchased by pork-merchants, when they reach from five to seven stones weight, are slightly salted, and sent for immediate use to London in casks, each containing a hundred-weight. About 600 were, in 1841, thus disposed of, average weight six stones, and price 5s., amount L.900. Mr Barclay of Ury has, from time to time, taken under his own management farms on his property, (originally improved in part by his father), and renewed that productiveness which tenants had allowed to fall off, by fresh application of lime, manuring, draining, and in several instances, spade trenching, at a great expense. Some, of these farms he has re-let, at advanced and remunerating rents. He has now, under his immediate charge, above 600 acres, surrounding his mansion-house, and forming one of the most beautiful farms to be seen in any part of the country. Every variety of soil is found in it, and all is kept in the very highest order. A considerable part consists of old pasture, in forming compost for the top-dressing of which, 12,000 loads of moss have been used, with much beneficial effect. The whole of the farm is enclosed, fully watered, and sheltered by stonewalls, hedges, and plantations. When a field, which has been for a long course of years in grass, is broken up for culture, the course pursued is, 1st year, oats; 2nd, barley; 3rd, turnips, consumed on the ground by sheep; 4th, barley; 5th, grass, made into bay; 6th, pasture. Except in the case of land which has, for many years, been under pasturage, two grain crops in succession are not taken; and the five course shift is generally adopted. When raising wheat, the rotation is, of course, different. In laying down land for permanent pasture, Mr Barclay adds to clover and rye-grass many additional seeds, according to the nature of the soil. The first expense is considerable; but a close sward, is formed, even in the second year, and on ground of but indifferent quality; and the grasses coming forward at successive seasons, from early spring to late autumn, there is a continued supply. The greater part of the turnip crop is consumed on the ground by sheep. Of these, he has generally a flock of upwards of 1000, They are of the Leicester breed, procured originally from England. The mutton of this species is not extensively used in the country. It finds market principally at London, to which the sheep are sent by steam-vessels from Aberdeen. The wool is sold to Leeds manufacturers. The sheep, at two years, often reach in weight to 25 lbs. per quarter, and the fleeces to 8 lbs.5 Perhaps the most important matter in farming proceedings, in which he is engaged, is the rearing of Teeswater, or short-horn cattle. He introduced this breed in the year 1824, having selected bulls and heifers from the most celebrated stocks in the counties of York and Durham. He has, ever since, continued unremittingly to attend to it, and is considered to have at present one of the finest and thoroughly pure stocks in Britain; the number being seldom under thirty or forty cows and heifers, besides other classes. The introduction of this breed forms an important era in cattle-rearing in the north of Scotland, over most districts of which produce from Ury is now to be found. Indeed, many animals have been sent from it into England, Ireland, and several places on the continent. Notwithstanding the annual sales have gone on for many years, and the breed is now so widely spread, the prices continue very high. At the sale of last autumn, the bull calves of from four to nine months old averaged L.40 a head. These circumstances prove the estimation in which the breed is held. If it be the case, as is asserted, that the beef of the best Scotch cattle fetches only about 5 per cent. above that of the Teeswater; that the Scotch cattle cannot be properly fed for the butcher, until three and a half years old, while the short-horns can be made fat at two and a half, or less; that native bullocks weigh, at two and a half, 30 stones Dutch, while even a cross with the Teeswater of the same age weighs from 50 to 60, - the cross having much of the gentle tempers and quickly feeding qualities of the pure short-horn: - if these be facts, they must go far to settle the point, both as to the pure breed and the cross, in regard to their introduction on farms, where adequate provender and shelter for summer and winter can be supplied. The crossing system has been advantageously pursued by Mr Barclay, he having had, for several years, about forty cows of the West Highland breed, (preferred, not only on account of their form properties, but also their hardy nature), rearing calves to Teeswater bulls. At the last sale, those from twelve to eighteen mouths old averaged L.12 a head. Plantations: - These occupy about 2000 acres. On some of the higher grounds oil the Fetteresso and Ury properties, owing to the nature of the subsoil, the trees long ago planted did not succeed. In more favourable situations, the success has been great; and much valuable wood of every kind usually produced in the country is every year disposed of. Larches have unfortunately, in several localities, been lately in an unthriving state. Mr Robertson, in his Agricultural Report of the county of Kincardine (1808), states that of the 24,914 acres to which this parish extends, above a third was then in cultivation; that about a tenth more was susceptible of cultivation; and about a twelfth part was under plantation. It is supposed, that there are now 10,000 acres under tillage, and 2000 in plantations. The rent at that period amounted to L.7427; in 1794, L.4200. Its state in 1840 was as follows: Ury, L.4000 a year; Fetteresso, L.3328; Netherley, Monquiech, and Muchalls, L.3397; Rickarton, L.1604; Cowie, L1383; Rothnick, L.300; part of the Dunnottar estate, L6; and the common of Cowie, L.20.6 The property of Elsick was feued in ten lots, about the year 1760, by the magistrates of Aberdeen, as managers of Guild Brethren's Hospital there, - the feu-duty amounting to 188 bolls of oatmeal annually. It is now, after many changes, in the hands of eleven individuals. The rentals are, Jellybrands, Chapelton, and Newtonhill, L814; Elsick and Cairnhill, L.526; Newhall, L.359; Cammackmore, L264; Monduff, L.185; Quoschies, L124; Cairngressie, L122; Berryhill, L.98; Wedderhill, L78; Beltcraigs, L.67. The existing rental of land in the parish may be considered as amounting to L16, 800; and that of property in the New town of Stonehaven, as assessed under the act for making provision for the poor, including Bridge-end of Arduthie, a separate property, but all built upon, to L.3191. Valued rent, L.6534. 4s. 2d. Scotch. Fisheries: - The re are three fishing-stations, one at Cowie, where there are 8 boats; one at Shanathro, 4; and one at Sketraw, 7; each having a crew consisting of five men. Fishing of cod and ling is now not so much pursued as formerly. Haddocks are the principal object. After supplying the neighbourhood with what is required in a fresh state, part during the summer season is dried on the beach, and called speldings. A part is smoked with peat, in the manner well known by the name of Findon. A much greater part, for some past years, has been smoked in houses prepared for the purpose, by wood. A very large quantity of these, from all the stations, is carried by cadgers to Forfar and Perthshires, and by coaches and sea-carriage to Edinburgh and Glasgow; a great deal also by steam-vessels from Aberdeen to London. Cod and ling are dried on the beach as well as haddocks, and a considerable quantity salted and forwarded in casks to different markets. All kinds of fish commonly found on this coast form part of the produce of the fishery with those enumerated. The drying, smoking, and pickling processes are now generally in the hands of contractors, who receive the fish, at stipulated prices, from the fishermen immediately after their arrival from sea. Almost all the persons employed in fishing are, during the herring season, occupied in that department. Those in this parish have been accustomed to fish at Peterhead and Fraserburgh; of late years, however, several of them at Stonehaven, where they have been very successful; and most likely few or none will, in future seasons, proceed to distant places. The number of boats thus employed, for some time past, has amounted to 15, each having five men. Their tonnage, is from 20 to 30 tons. There are several salmon-fisheries in this parish let to tenants. The principal is in the bay of Stonehaven, where the process is conducted by cobles, and stake and bag-nets; at Muchalls and other places, almost entirely by the last of these modes. There are no river fishings. Only a small part of the salmon is consumed in the neighbourhood, the greater part being sent to the London market. Even in favourable seasons, the quantity procured is not great, as may be supposed from the rents not exceeding L.100 a year. Brewery: - A brewery, long, established in Stonehaven, supplies the town, and a wide circuit of the adjoining country with beer, etc. Distillery: - A distillery was commenced on the Cowie, close by Stonehaven, in 1824, known as the Glenury Royal Distillery. From time to time, it was extended until capable of manufacturing upwards of 6000 quarters of barley annually. The buildings are extensive and substantial, and the utensils of the best description. The proprietors having offered the work for sale, distillation has lately been carried on but to a limited extent. Manufactures: - There are two mills on the Carron, at Stonehaven. One, not now occupied, has been used for spinning both flax and wool. The other continues to be employed in wool-spinning, principally for persons in the country districts. It is on a limited scale. Only a small quantity of cloth is manufactured by individuals for family use. Still some is made, chiefly of home-grown wool, and there are weavers for such work in several parts of the parish. In Stonehaven and neighbourhood, many, several years ago were occupied in weaving dowlas, duck, and sacking, for manufacturers in Aberdeen and Montrose. The number does not exceed now 85, including females and boys, and they are far from being constantly employed. Even when they are employed, after working from very early in the morning to very late at night, a man, in the full vigour of life, often cannot earn above 10s. a week. Woollen yarn is still given out monthly for knitting into stockings, by an Aberdeen company, but the payment allowed is wretchedly low. V. - PAROCHIAL ECONOMY Means of Communication: - The first and greatest work in improvement in the roads in this parish, was the executing tile turnpike road from the south to Aberdeen, about the year 1797. Afterwards, 1800, principally through the great exertions of Mr Innes, then tacksman of the whole estate of Durris, a turnpike road was made from Stonehaven to Banchory Ternan; and lately, that from Stonehaven to the Dee, by Netherley, has been put on the same footing. The first two of these have been laid out in the most judicious manner, are kept in the best order, and have been attended by the most beneficial effects. There are about twenty miles of these roads in the parish. On those under the commutation Act of Parliament, great improvements, year after year, have taken place in every district, and farther progress is in view. Town, etc.: - About the year 1759, the late Mr Barclay of Ury purchased the property of Arduthie.7 Soon after, he planned a new town (often still called the Links of Arduthie) along the seashore, forming a continuation of Stonehaven, in the parish of Dunnottar, in which the Sheriff and other courts of Kincardineshire are held. It is built on a regular plan. The feus, each one-eighth of an acre, are given off in perpetuity. At first, the duty was low, but afterwards was raised to L.2 per annum. It made, for a considerable period, rapid progress, the population having been in 1801, 770; in 1821, 1635; in 1831, 2064; in 1841, 2061. There are in New Stonehaven many excellent houses, to which walled gardens are attached; others, of an inferior description, suited to various classes in society; and shops, where goods of every description are always to be obtained. There are, also, tradesmen8 of almost every kind. The dwelling-houses and shops are lighted by gas; and the supply of water, is abundant. There are, of course, villages at the fishing stations. That at Cowie contains 174 inhabitants; at Stranathro, (including the coast-guard establishment in it) 126; at Sketraw, 183. There are 45 persons in the Kirktown. Post-Office, etc. - Two mails from the south, and two from the north, are received at Stonehaven every day. A stage-coach, to and from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen, passes also every day; and a coach to and from Aberdeen and Stonehaven, four times a-week. The Aberdeen and Edinburgh steamers call on their way; and there are carriers in constant employment in every direction. Dispensary: - The poor receive medical advice, are visited in their houses, and supplied with medicines. The establishment is supported by contributions from the inhabitants. The services of the physician are gratuitously afforded. Bank: - A branch of the Aberdeen Town and County Bank is established in the town. Savings Bank: - Soon after the introduction of these institutions, one was established for this, and the neighbouring parish of Dunnottar. Its funds have always been increasing, and now the deposits amount to upwards of L.14, 000. Harbour: - The parish is principally supplied with coals, lime, &c. from the harbour of Stonehaven, close to its southern boundary; and from it, grain and other produce are exported. Coals and lime, to a limited extent, are imported, during the summer season, at a creek at Elsick, formerly mentioned. Markets: - There is a weekly market at Stonehaven, on Thursday, when butter, cheese, poultry, eggs, etc. are exposed for sale. On that day there is a market for grain, during its season, attended by the farmers of the adjoining district; and in winter and spring, for cattle. Immediately previous to Candlemas, Whitsunday, Martinmas and Christmas, the market is for cattle, feeing of servants, etc. Fairs, formerly at Megray, about two miles north, for cattle and horses, in June and September, are now held in Stonehaven. Butcher-meat is to be there procured every day. At Muchalls, there are cattle fairs, at several seasons of the year, generally well attended. Inns, etc. - There are 40 houses licensed for the sale of spirits, etc. - in Stonehaven, 25 (five of which have wine licences); in the villages of Cowie, Stranathro, and Sketraw, 7; and along the roads, in different districts, 8. The number in Stonehaven, in 1838, was 32. It is hoped that the cause of abstinence from intoxicating liquors, at present favourably advancing, will continue to make progress, and public-houses, year after year, become less common. Horticulture: - There are good gardens at the seats of several of the proprietors, a particularly fine old terraced one at Ury, and a conservatory and hot-house at Fetteresso Castle. Much attention has, of late years, in this respect, been paid by persons in Stonehaven. The quantity of fruit there produced is great, and, in many cases, of high quality. Ecclesiastical State: - The picturesque remains of the church of Cowie,9 strike the eye of every traveller on the road leading to and from Stonehaven; the effect, no doubt, injured by its having had placed close to it a dead-house, lately erected. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its length is 67 feet, and width 18 H; and it is surrounded by a burial-ground, in which many bodies continue to be interred. Cowie does not appear to have ever formed a separate parish from Fetteresso. The church seems to have been a private chapel for the accommodation of the proprietors and their feudal retainers. The chapelry was conveyed to Marischal College Aberdeen, by the original charter of George, Earl Marischal, in 1593, but reserved by the charter of ratification of William, Earl Marischal, son of the former, in 1623. At the Reformation, the value of the benefice was estimated at 24 bolls of bear. In 1601, Mr Andrew Milne, minister of the parish, received a grant of the third of it.10 The former parish church was situated close on the southern boundary, rather more than a mile from Stonehaven. It must have been very ancient, but without any claim to architectural importance. Its walls still remain, having been purchased by Mr Duff of Fetteresso, and it is not likely that they will be demolished but by the hand of time. Although its length was curtailed in 1720, when a small aisle was built opposite the pulpit, it still was in length 94 feet, while its width was only 19. In 1813, an excellent new church, fitted to accommodate 1400 sitters, was erected, near Stonehaven, and, at the same time, a corresponding manse. There is attached to the former church an extensive burial-ground, in which, on an average of seventeen past years, seventy- six corpses have been annually laid. For a considerable period, commencing about the year 1760, there was a small place of worship at Newhall, in the northern district of the parish. It was known by the name of the Sod Kirk, having, at first, most likely, either been built of, or covered with turf. Latterly, it was tile-roofed. It had always been a wretched place, and at last became altogether ruinous. In 1816, great exertions were made for procuring a better and larger building; and a house, accommodating 400 sitters, was erected at Cookney, on the property of Muchalls. It having become insufficient for its object, fresh exertions were made, which resulted in a church, in which 700 are properly accommodated. In promoting this important object, the late Mr Silver of Netherley was in every way powerfully efficient. In this district, far distant from the parish church, there are 1400 members of the Establishment, exclusive of nearly 300 who are connected with an Episcopal chapel, also on the estate of Muchalls. At Cookney, worship is regularly conducted on Sabbath by a preacher, who is also second parochial schoolmaster; and, by permission of the presbytery of Fordoun, the sacrament of the supper is annually administered by the minister of the parish. At the celebration of it, in May last, 510 communicants joined in the sacred ordinance. Of the Episcopal persuasion, to which, with few exceptions, the fishermen at the three stations belong, besides those in the northern, there are about 250 in the southern district. Of the United Secession Church, there are 120 members in full communion, who, with their families, worship in a commodious building at Stonehaven. There are also a few families of the Methodist connection, and one of the Roman Catholic. The following is a list of the ministers of Fetteresso from the Reformation to the present time: - Mr John Christesoun, minister of Fetteresso, Dunnottar, and Glenbervie, 1567. Archibald Rait, reader at Fetteresso, 1567-1576. Mr Patrick Brown, died 1579. Mr Andrew Milne,11 translated from Dunnottar) November 1579; died 1605. Mr Andrew Milne, Junior, admitted 1605; died October 12, 1640. Mr Patrick Leslie, translated from Skene, 1640. Mr John Milne,12 1676; died January 1703. Mr John Webster, admitted March 13th 1705; translated to New Deer, April 1707. Mr David Burn, admitted November 2nd 1709; died May 1749. Mr Alexander Forbes, admitted February 1750; died January 1759. Mr John Ballantyne, admitted June 1760; died October 1762. Mr William Shank, admitted February 1763; died in August following. Mr John Hutcheon, admitted 1764; died February 27, 1800. Mr George Thomson, (the present incumbent), admitted September 18th 1800.13 The present incumbent, on entering on his office, was told by several persons, that he was the sixth minister of the parish whom they had seen. Considering the period during which his immediate predecessor filled the charge, the circumstance appeared very remarkable; but the above statement will show its consistency with truth. The stipend consists of 17 chalders, half barley, half oatmeal, paid in money, according to the county fiars prices, the average of which, for the last seven years, has been for barley, L.1. 6s. 9 H d. per quarter, and for meal, 17s. 7 H d. per boll. The glebe is rather more than eight acres in extent. Education: - There are two parochial schools, one situated in the south, the other in the northern district; the first having attached to it the maximum, the second, the minimum salary. There are, besides, in Stonehaven, and in several places in the country part of the parish, - some schools more especially for females, which are all endowed, with the exception of two. That at Cairnhill was established by the Rev. Dr Morison, (minister of Banchory Devenick), proprietor of the estate of Elsick, who has provided a school-room, lodging, and a garden, for the teacher, and also, as annual salary, the interest of L.100. The other was founded by the late Mr William Donaldson of Quoschies, who, by his latter will, conveyed to trustees the lands of Beltcraigs, and a tenement in Stonehaven, for the purpose of educating fifty or more poor children, two-thirds of the number from the parish of Fetteresso, and one-third from the parish of Dunnottar. The school was opened in June 1838, and 60 young persons have since that time attended it, vacancies having, twice a year, been filled up. In order to bring the property into a state efficient for its object, a considerable expenditure was necessary. At a period not very distant, the revenue will be improved; and the benefits of the institution, already happily experienced, will, according to the wishes of the benevolent founder of it, be more and more extended. At the parochial and several of the other schools, the means of a liberal education are afforded. Comparatively few, however, now apply themselves to the learned languages. It may be stated, that there are generally in the parish at least twelve teachers employed; and that the number of persons attending them amounts on an average, to 600, and 400 at Sabbath schools. Poor: - When ability for regular labour, either from loss of health, or advanced age, is gone, and through improvidence or otherwise nothing of any importance has been laid up, the resource is an apartment in a town, and very commonly speedy destitution follows. Not many years ago, there were in Stonehaven nine Friendly Societies, the number of the members of which (a great part residenters in this parish) amounted to nearly 1700. None of them now exist. These institutions were founded on unsound principles, the contributions for their support bearing no proper proportion to the allowances proposed to be granted. Their discontinuance has thrown on the poor's funds many sick widows, and orphans. But the principal cause of increased pauperism may be considered to have been the great change that has taken place in regard to manufactures. Formerly the females of every family were occupied in spinning and knitting; the daughters of respectable farmers plied their wheels industriously; and even the old and infirm, in many cases, by knitting stockings, earned a considerable portion of their own maintenance. But all this is now nearly over. At the end of the last century, it appears that the number of poor receiving supply was about 40, and that the provision for them amounted annually to about L.40. The provision afterwards became much greater, but the number of the poor increased, from causes already stated, and particularly from strangers coming into Stonehaven with limited property, on the exhaustion of which, after three years' residence, (too short a period), a claim for aid was established. For a considerable period, the weekly church collections averaged L.100 a-year. This sum, however, with the other means, did not keep pace with the prevailing wants. At last, it was resolved that there should be a statutory assessment. This measure has been in existence for two years; and has produced the annual amount of L.400, at the rate of 3d. per L.1 on the real rental of proprietors, and 2d. on the means and substance of the other inhabitants. The weekly collections, as might be expected, have greatly fallen off. The number of poor on the roll, including lunatics, the support of whom in asylums has often borne very hard on the funds, is now about 110, who are supplied quarterly, monthly, weekly, or occasionally, according to their respective circumstances. They have the interest of L.50, a legacy from the late Sir Thomas Bannerman, and share with the parish of Dunnottar in the interest of L.200, the gift to the poor of Stonehaven, and immediate neighbourhood, of the late Mr Stevens of Broadland. There is also, under the charge of the minister and elders, property bequeathed by two sisters of the name of Duns. Until a house, forming part of that bequest, be disposed of, the amount of this benefaction cannot be ascertained; but, it is hoped, that it will extend to L.500. Family Names: - Some of the names frequently occurring in the more ancient registers, do not now exist in the parish. Of 646 male heads of families, 21 are of the sirname of Milne, 18 of Robertson, and 15 of Thomson. These may be considered the names now most prevalent. March 1842. FOOTNOTES 1 Crawfurd, in the Appendix to the Lives of Officers of State (No. 29), publishes the disposition, as one of the first deeds of this description in the Scottish language. 2 It would appear that the sale was not completed in 1651, when the Earl Marischal being taken prisoner by the English, under Monk, and his estate forfeited, they seized it, together with the lands of Ury, which Colonel D. Barclay had purchased from him, on the pretext that the rights or the latter were not folly completed. Upon this, by the advice of the Earl and his other friends, he became elected Member her of Parliament, as the only method left to get possession of his own estate of Ury, as well as to do service to his country and friends. He was so successful, that he got access to his own lands, and obtained large concessions in favour of the Earl Marischal's family (Diary of Alexander Jaffray, p. 263, Lond. 1833). 3 Wigton, Tweeddale, Hamilton, Gordon and others. 4 For a considerable period the seasons have, on the whole, been favourable. A short notice may be given respecting some of those during the latter period of the last century, as experienced in this district. The years 1770 and 1771 were very bad. In each, continued snow for thirteen weeks after Christmas. 1772 and 1773, better, but grain scanty and dear. 1774, much damage from sea blight, the best oats on the coast not producing above 7 pecks of meal per boll. 1775, oats, with fodder, sold at L.2 per boll. 1776, very abundant. From 1777 to 1781, good. In 1779, the seed was all sown in February, and the harvest finished in the middle of August; oats with fodder sold at from L.1. 10s. to L. 2 per boll, while meal did not exceed 13s. 4d. 1782, disastrous beyond all precedent. 1783, loss from the badness of the seed. 1784, very abundant. 1795, bad crop and harvest - blasting, shaking, and rotting. 1799, oats sowing began 15th April, barley sowing, 15th May. Not two dry consecutive days from the beginning to the end. With the exception of 1782, the worst crop ever remembered. The Kincardineshire fiar prices of that crop were, barley, L.2. 7s., meal, L.2. 3s. per boll. With regard to the present century, it may only be noticed, that the crop of 1815 was, perhaps, the greatest ever known in Britain. At the Martinmas Stonehaven market, the prices were, oats, 8s. to 9s. per boll; meal, 10s. 6d., barley, 10s. to 12s. Barley, for which at the time he was offered 11s., a tenant on the estate of Ury, (who. no doubt; often, greatly to his loss., was accustomed long to retain his grain when prices were unsatisfactory), afterwards sold at L.1. 10s. to L.2, and the remainder, in autumn 1817, bringing him nearly L.500 at L.3. 3s. per boll. 5 For some years, Mr Barclay has successfully crossed Southdown ewes with the Leicester breed, keeping, a considerable flock of the former. 6 This tract of uncultivated ground extends to 2774 Scotch acres. Of this, 512 acres consist of peat moss, the rest of heath interspersed with coarse grass. Lengthened judicial proceedings took place about the right to this common, which issued in a decree, confirmed, on appeal, by the House of Lords, in April 1824, finding, that "the whole forest, muir, and commonry of Cowie belongs to Sir Alexander Keith of Dunnottar, subject to the rights of servitude, which tile other heritors may be able to instruct over the same." Of this common, 8.28 acres are claimed as property by some of the neighbouring heritors A considerable part might he rendered arable at no very great expense; but no attempt at cultivation can be made until a division be effected, and to this there are serious obstacles, arising front the great number of persons who claim rights of servitude. In the meantime, the different conterminous heritors or their tenants pasture cattle and sheep on the common. Great quantities of peats are taken from the mosses, and of sods from the surface of the ground, - thereby, year after year, destroying the means of forming a soil for cultivation. The rent stated arises from the. privilege of shooting. 7 The purchase-money was L.1500. For a long time past, the rental has amounted to L.1000 per annum; - one-half from feu-duties, the other from the landward part; - a case scarcely paralleled, except in the neighbourhood of large and numerously peopled towns 8 Stonehaven, though the head town of Kincardineshire, would appear to have had no public baker in 1664. It is stated in the session records, that, on the sacramental occasion in that year " there was given Jean Dickie 8s. for goeing to Montrose for the bread." 9 Cowie seems to have been, in ancient times, a place of greater importance than its present appearance would give ground for supposing. There is a charter in Marischal College Aberdeen, dated 20th October 1367, " By Alicia, relict of the deceased John son of ... of Cowy, to her well-beloved cousin, Allan of Gilnafoyet, of four acres belonging to her, with the buildings of the same, lying in the north part of the village of Cowy." Keyth says- At the mouth of Cowy water, is a free burgh called Cowie vetusla mogis quam opulenta, by reason of the want of a shore or seaport for ships. There is to be seen beneath the town, the ruins of a castle, built, as is supposed, by Malcolm Canmore; the town of Cowie made a free burgh by the said king. Besides these ruins, there is an old chappel, called the Kirk of Cowie, and a chaplaincy belonging thereto, given out by the king of old; and the parson of Fetteress hath, a portion of the said chaplaincy given to him by the king's donation to this day. " There be many crofts of land yet, beside this ruinous castle and the town of Cowie that have their several denominations from the several office-men of the said palace, as Cooks-croft, Porter-croft, Stable-croft, Stewart-croft, and have their several charters to this effect." No authority is known in support of these statements by Mr Keith. It appears, however, from the baptism register that the Earls of Marischal, and other persons of high respectability, were on habits of social intercourse, at a much later period, with persons there residing. 10 The grant was as follows: - Oure Souerane Lord remembering the gude, trew, and thankfull seruices done to his heines at, all occasions be his louit Maister Andro MyIne, Minister of Fetteresso, especiallie in the common affaires of the kirk, considering also the lang, ernest, and profitable travellis tane and sustenit be him in his ordiner functioun of the ministerie without any sufficient stipend, or worthy recompence maid to, him thairfoir, the personage of Fetteresso, quhairunto he is provydit, being set of auld be his predecessors for ane small silver dewtie, quhilk is not able to sustane him convenientlie as becometh, and his heines being of good intention to incurage the said Mr Andro to continew in the honest discharge of the said functioun) thairfoir ordains ane letter, etc. givand, grantand, and disponand to the said Maister Andro, during all the days of his lyftyme, all and haill the thrid of the chaplainrie of Cowie, extending yearly to aucht bollis beir, etc." The church seems to have been demolished at the time of the Reformation. "It is to be remarked that, after the Reformation of religion in this kingdom in Queen Marie's time, this chapel being demolished by reason of superstitious resorting thereto, a certain man called William Rait of Redlock brought away some of the roof of this chapel and built a house therewith; and a little thereafter the whole house rained drops of blood. There be some living yet that can testify this." "Keyth's remarkable things, etc." - See Description of the Coast between Aberdeen and Leith, by Mr Duncan, p. 10. Aberdeen, 1837. 11 Mr Andrew Milne, Senior, was schoolmaster of Montrose, and the preceptor of Mr James Melville, who, in his Diary, speaks of him as a "lerned, honest, kynd man, verie skilfull and diligent." He was appointed minister at Dunlappy in 1571. whence be was translated to Dunnottar in 1578. He appears to have been much employed in the ecclesiastical affairs of the period. 12 On the death of Mr Milne in 1703, Mr Gideon Guthrie, art Episcopal preacher intruded himself into the church and manse, with the connivance of Earl Marischal, the patron, and retained possession till May 1709, when he was ejected by a sentence of the Court of Justiciary. 13 For the information contained in the above list, and kind aid in this report, grateful acknowledgements are offered to Mr G. B. Kinloch of Edinburgh, and also to Mr Duncan of Aberdeen, - both eminent for their attainments in every branch of antiquarian knowledge.