BUCHANAN VALLEY

AND THE

Sources of the Great Conowago.

THE NARROWS-PINEY HILL AND BIG HILL—BEAR MOUNTAIN—GEOLOGICAL FORMATION—THE CONOWAGO AND TRIBUTARY RUNS-ROADS-SAWMILLS-WILD BEASTS-BARONIAL NAMES—CHURCH AND PASTORS—BLOCKL-HOUSES-ORIGIN OF NAME

It is proposed to give a general description of Buchanan Valley, and the Sources of the Great Conowago, with an account of the settlement and early improvements along portions of this stream, interspersed with such bits of local history as tradition and a few records have left us. Many, no doubt, will be glad to add to their stock of early history such facts as may be new to them and which they may deem of sufficient importance to preserve. With the aid of those who can render it, other points may be taken up in the future. No information can be secured at less expense, and all who can contribute towards the collection and distribution of such knowledge, should be ready to second the efforts of those who are willing, gratuitously, to perform the labor of writing and printing. The writer desires to say, at this point, that he has met with the kindest reception and consideration from every one from whom he solicited data. Space does not permit the mention of the names which it would give me pleasure to recite. It is, however, due to Mr. D. D. Gitt, of Arendtsville, to say that a number of facts were collected by him a few years ago with a view to publication, and that he kindly gave the writer the benefit of his notes.

Buchanan Valley, in the South Mountain, is seven miles in length, extending from Mr. E. D. Newman's on the Chambersburg turnpike, in a northeasterly direction, and from one and a half to two miles in width. It is securely hemmed in on all sides by high mountain ridges and hills. On the northwest side stretches the Piney Hill, forming an unbroken wall. The southwest side is bounded by two ridges, Bear Mountain and the Big Hill, the former rising directly east of the Narrows to the height of 1,290 feet, and the latter west of the Narrows to the height of 1,485 feet. The southern end of the valley is shut off by the terminus of the Green Ridge, which closes up the space between the Big Hill and Piney Hill. It is through a depression in the general mountain range at this point that the Chambersburg road leads. The northeastern end of the valley is closed by, several hills approaching each other from the ridges constituting the side walls, which hills also divide the head waters of Opossum creek from certain head waters of the Great Conowago.

Piney Hill is very regular in its main outlines. With the exception of a few abrupt spurs that jut up here and there along its side, like huge buttresses serving as additional supports to the wall, as it were, the face of the ridge presents an appearance of precision amounting almost to severity. One of these buttresses or spurs is directly opposite the entrance to the Narrows, and would seem to have, at one time, fitted into this opening and formed a. connecting link between Bear Mountain and Big Hill. In fact any one looking carefully at the general map of Adams county will at once perceive how marked is the general coincidence, as to direction between the outlines of the opposite sides of the valley, suggesting that they were originally joined together, and that, by the exercise of some extraordinary disturbing force, they were at a subsequent period rent asunder, leaving a yawning gap between them, which, in time, the deeper crevices and sharper angles being respectively filled up and rounded off, assumed its present shape, and that so the valley originated. The explanation of this phenomenon is to be found, however, in the relation which the water courses and their surroundings sustain to each other. The valley was formed by means of, what Geologists term erosion; which means that it was scooped out by the disintegration of the rock masses, which once occupied its place, under the influence of the weather and atmosphere, and the action of water, by which latter the loosened particles were at the same time carried away. Of course the harder rocks, offering greater resistance to these influences, would fall to pieces more slowly, and hence the greater portion of them would remain behind, to form mountains and hills, whilst the spaces formerly occupied by the softer and more friable substances, would constitute valleys and ravines. It is easy to understand, therefore, that as the streams would be turned to the right or left by barriers of hard rock, the part left standing would be opposite to, and complement the depression caused by the action of the water. Looking westward toward Piney Hill it apparently advances and recedes from the observer at various points. This is caused by the irregularities above referred to, on its surface, for the direction of its, main strike is almost a straight line.

The Big Hill extends from the Narrows southwestward to the Chambersburg Pike, and the Bear Mountain from the same point northeastward. Thus this beautiful and romantic valley is effectually isolated from the neighboring world by high mountain barriers.But it is nevertheless easy of access, for it is traversed by several good roads, which are kept in excellent repair. One of these is the old Baltimore, at present known as the Shippensburg road, leading from Gettysburg to Shippensburg. It enters the valley' through the Narrows, crosses it, approaches Piney Hill at the foot of the spur or buttress before mentioned, which it ascends, gaining the summit of the ridge over a pretty steep grade. The other Valley road, leads off from the Shippensburg road at a point a short distance above Mr. Francis Cole's place, up through the valley, terminating at Mr. E. D. Newman's on the Chambersburg pike. These are the principal thoroughfares, and they afford good facilities for the transportation of fertilizers and marketable products. Besides these there are other roads leading into the valley and through it. There is what is called the New Road, which starts at the Three Bridges, one mile from Hilltown on the road to Arendteville; it intersects the Valley road at Mr. George Cole's; thence it leads to the foot of Piney Hill, along which it runs, terminating finally at the Shippensburg road a short distance beyond Mr. C. W. Stewart's. From the latter place a road leads out of the valley by way of Wenksville to Bendersville. A road also leads from Cole Bro's saw mill across the hill to Corwell's tavern, on the turnpike.

The symmetry of the valley is considerably marred by the presence of Pleasant Hill, a short ridge which extends from near where the New road intersects the Valley road, to the northeast, a distance of perhaps one or one and a half miles, dividing the valley, to that extent, into two sections or smaller valleys.From the summit of this hill, Pleasant View, as the point is called, a good outlook is obtained over most of the valley, particularly over that portion of it lying to The south and east, including the Narrows which with its well defined pillars, makes it a very fine picture.

Buchanan Valley is well watered and fertile, but in places hilly and rough, and in others swampy. The main stream of the Great Conowago heads in a spring on the property of Mr. Wm. Shepherd, at the extreme southern end of the valley and flows in a pretty direct line to the northeast, its course lying between Big Hill and Pleasant Hill, to a point about half a mile beyond the Narrows, which it enters, after gracefully curving to the !south and then to the east, and through which it emerges into the plain below. The only tributaries worthy of mention, with a few exceptions, which it receives before it gets so far on its way, take their rise in Piney Hill. There have been altogether as many as eight improvements of water power on it to this point. Those still in existence and in working order are the saw mills of George and John Cole and John Brady, Kimple's grist and saw mills, P. and A. Beamer's saw, shingle and chopping mills, and the saw and shingle mills of Francis Cole.

Beginning at the upper end of the valley, the first tributary is McKenrick's Run, which flows southward along the western base of Pleasant Hill, and is an important contribution to the race of Kimple's saw and grist mill, through which it finds its way into tho Conowago. Mr. Geo. Cole's saw mill is on this stream. This, and the mill at Mr. John Cole's, have of late years been operated by steam, under the firm name of Cole Bro’s.

The next in order is Bleakney's Run. It heads on lands of Messrs. Irvin and Daniel Wingert, winds along the northside and around the eastern end of Pleasant Hill, where it meets the Conowago. This stream has had as many as six saw and shingle mills erected on it. At present there are three, those of MeKenrick, Bleakney and Bittinger.

Further east, on the right of the Shippensburg road, rises another called Boyd's Run., It receives considerable accession to its volume from a fine spring situated in the yard of Mr. C. W. Stewart. It empties info Sillik's Run, which last rises still a little further to the east, and flows southwest into the Conowago at the head of Francis Cole's saw mill dam. This stream has a saw mill owned by Francis Cole, one by Philip Sillik and a shingle mill by Michael Beamer.

In the extreme northeast corner of the valley, on lands of Taylor and Schlosser, rises Beamer's Run. It flows south and west, also emptying into Conewago at the head of Cole's dam. It is augmented by Coon Run, a branch heading on lands of Warren and McCauslin, by Fox Run rising on lands of John Showers, and Taylor’s Run, the last two rising in Bear Mountain and flowing northwest. The names of the hitherto unnamed Coon and Fox Buns suggested themselves to the writer at hearing a statement by Mr. Samuel McCauslin to the effect that the region of the former was at one time infested with raccoons, and that of the latter with foxes. The gentleman may be regarded as an authority in such matters, inasmuch as he is a skilled hunter. Beamer's Run turns two saw mills, one belonging to Leonard Taylor and the other to H. Beamer.

With Francis Cole's saw and shingle mills at the head of the Narrows, therefore, the valley contains at least a dozen improvements of water power, which are operated more or less during the years

Originally the valley was overgrown with large and stately timber, consisting principally of white pine, spruce pine, oak and chestnut, which accounts for the numerous saw and shingle mills that have been, and still are in use. Most of the valuable timber has, however, been cut down, transformed into boards and lumber and hauled to market. Of course much of the land is now cleared and under cultivation. We must not forget, however, to call attention to several tributaries of the Great Conowago, which It receives after it emerges from the Narrows. The first of these is Laurel Run. It rises at the foot of the Bear Mountain near Mr. George Schlosscr's, flows south, and empties into the Conowago below Mr. James Taylor's. This Run reoeives a tributary, Laurel Branch, which comes down the ravine from Mr. Jacob Schlosser's. Its banks are beautifully overgrown, in places, by laurel, and it received its name from this circumstance. Another tributary to the Conowago is Keckler's Run. It rises on lands of Mr. Raffensperger, west of Arendtsville, flows east through the town, and empties into the creek at the dam to Behler’s woolen mill.

Another very fine little stream, Steinhour's Run, rises in Pine Hill and flows, south. On it is the tannery of Mr. William Steinour, a half mile from where it empties into the Conowago. This is an old tannery, but the present improvments were erected, not many years ago, by Mr. John Steinour, Sen.; there is a good farm connected with it. Here let us pause for the present, after directing the attention of the reader to the beauties of the many sources of the Great Conowago, which we have had only time to mention. He who loves nature in its native wildness, can not fail to be gratified should he follow any of the brandies issuing from the mountain sides in Buchanan Valley.

The valley was settled at a very early period, principally by Scotch Irish, in the first half of the last century, and they were in the habit of naming their estates according to the baronial system of England and Ireland; for example, the tract now the property of Mr. F. Cole was called by the title of "Armagh," which is the name of a county in Ireland. The present inhabitants are a hospitable, industrious and honest class of farmers and manufacturers of lumber. A few, as is the case everywhere, lead shiftless lives, but they are not to be taken as the type of the population of Buchanan Valley, any more than of Christian civilization at large. I find the people intelligent, as a rule, and have met some who have few superiors anywhere in the way of natural abilities and as self-made men.

Many of the inhabitants are members of the Roman Catholic church, which has a fine substantial house of worship not far from Mr. Kimple's mill, on the road to Corwell's. This church was commenced and partly finished by Mr.Hostetter. This gentleman having failed in business before its completion, it was seized and sold by the sheriff for the liquidation of his debts. The Society of Jesuits of Georgetown and Conowago purchased it at the sale and afterwards finished it. It was set apart to the worship of God under the name of the Church of St. Ignatius. The same order supplied the congregation with divine service for a number of years. The supplies were sent from Conowago Chapel as late as 1852. The ministers serving the congregation from the time that the church was completed were the following: Revs. DuBarth and F. Legue until the year 1829; Rev. Michael Daugherty from 1829-1844; Rev. Joseph Dietz, 1844-1850; (about this time Rev. F. Catanni supplied it several times;) Rev. J. B. Cotting, 1850-1853; , Rev. F. X. Denecker, 1853-1858. In 1858. In 1858 the church was give over to the Bishop of Philadelphia, From this time it was served by the following: Revs. B. A. Shorb from 1858-1859 , L. J. Miller, 1859-1860; A. McGumis, 1800-1883 ; Joseph A. Boll, 1864-1873; J. M. Boefzkes and D. A. Riley, 1873-1875, and from 1875 until the present lime T. J. Flemming and Joseph Kaelin.

Wild beasts of various kinds abounded in the valley, hear, deer, wolves, wild cats, raccoons, foxes arid the smaller animals. It was a favorite hunting ground of ex-President James Buchanan. He used to spend a week or so in the valley, in his earlier years, in the pleasure and excitement of the chase. Some parts of the valley were especially infested by wild cats. They harbored in the bottom lands of the Boyd estate and were not dislodged until driven out by Casper Fink. Remembering the horror this animal has of fire, he drove them away effectually by building a number of fires in their midst. “Tis said that at their departure they set up a howl and wail that were terrible to hear”. Wild cats, with most of the other animals mentioned, still exist in the South Mountain, but, of course, are not nearly so numerous as they once were. The early settlers, whilst benefited by the abundance of useful game, were no doubt much annoyed by the wolves, and foxes, which destroyed their sheep and poultry; but they had a more wily enemy in the red sons of the forest, as those know who have become acquainted with the history of the abduction, of maby jemison and the cruel, savage butchery of her parents.

A block-house was erected near Arendtsville for the protection of the frontier settlers. It may be well enough to give a brief description of these defenses. I find this at hand in a quaint old book, entitled "Notes on the Settlement and Indian Wars of the western parts, of Virginia and Pennsylvania”, from the year 1763 to the year 1783 inclusive, by Rev. Jos. Doddridge, D. D.," kindly given the writer by the Editor of this paper, for perusal. The book belongs to Dr. Wm. Elder, of Philadelphia. It was shown to the celebrated Charles Dickens during his visit to this country and he is alleged to have pronounced it the purest history he ever saw. However this may be, it made the writer's fingers tingle to think that these leaves had been turned by the hands that had labored so incessantly and whose work had become so renowned. But to return. The author of this work was reared amidst the scenes which he describes. His own home was for a while located within a fort. He says: "The fort consisted of cabins, block-houses and stockades. A range of cabins commonly formed one side at least of the fort. Divisions or partitions of logs separated the cabins from each other. The walls on the outside were ten or twelve feet high, the slope of the roof being turned wholly inward. A very few of these cabins had puncheon floors, the greater part were earthen. The block-houses were built at the angles of the fort. They projected about two feet beyond the outer walls of the cabins and stockades. Their upper stories were about eighteen inches every way larger in dimension than the under one, leaving an opening at the commencement of the second story to prevent the enemy from making a lodgment under the walls. In some forts, instead of blockhouses, the angles of the fort were furnished with bastions. A large folding gate made of thick slabs, nearest the spring, closed the fort. The stockade, bastions, cabins, and block-house walls were furnished with port holes at proper heights and distances. The whole of the outside was made completely bulletproof. He also states that the Indians seldom attacked, and scarcely ever took, one of these forts. The chief difficulty lay in , the fact that the settlers seldom took the precaution to move into their forts until one or more had been slain, and the whole neighborhood was compelled to seek safety in flight. A block-house stood near the spot where Mr. Samuel (not Solomon, as stated in the article on Arendtsville) Hartman resides. It was probably constructed somewhat after the above described general plan, and might have proved a secure defense to the families of Buchanan Valley at the time Mary Jamison was captured, had they, at the first announcement of the approach of the savages, taken refuge in or near it. It must not be forgotten, however, that in those days of perilous frontier life, many false rumors were constantly set afloat, and that hence the first report of threatening danger was often held in doubt, until the return of scouts who were at once sent out to reconnoiter; but alas too often, as in the case alluded to, the confirmation came only with the terrible catastrophe which resulted in tedious captivity or death. And now as to the origin of the name, "Buchanan Valley": On the evening of December 12, 1856, the success of Buchanan and Breckinride was celebrated by a "jollification" at Graeffenberg (Good-year's) Springs, in the mountain. The people of "The Valley," as it was then called, turned out in large force, and to distinguish their’s from the other “vallies” beginning to claim position, asked that a new name be formally conferred. The occasion proved auspicious, and at the close of the political demonstration the dining room doors were thrown open and all present invited to partake of a hastily gotten-up collation. Mr. John McCourt presided, with Col. Wm. Piper, Wm. Crouse, Robert Bleakney, David Goodyear, Wm. Hamilton, John A. Noel, Samuel Brady and John Oyler as Vice Presidents, and Samuel Etter, Robert Renfrew, Henry S. Miller, John Liggett and Charles W. Cline as Secretaries. The name of "Buchanan Valley" was then proposed and adopted by acclamation, and pertinent speeches by Jesse D. Newman, Esq., Major Charles Gibbs, J. W. Douglass, Esq., George F. Cain, Esq.,_Hon. Wilson Reilly and H.J. Stahle followed. Cheers closed the proceedings. "Buchanan Valley" is now almost as well known as any other section of our county, and is attractive in its varied scenery, its wealth of timber, its numerous water courses, it productive lands, its beautiful orchards, and its tasteful and comfortable improvements.