CIVIL WAR DIARY OF JOSEPH REID

May 29, 1864 to June 30, 1864

Company “L”, Eighth Ohio Volunteer Cavalry

 

Introduction

by

Carl T. Musselman

Great, Great, Great Grandnephew of Joseph Reid

January 9, 2002

 

This eloquent, intelligently written, journal was submitted to me by the direct descendants of Sergeant Joseph Reid as a typewritten transcription of the handwritten original.  That transcription has been, herein, reproduced and intentionally includes the misspellings, typographical errors, and grammar that appeared in it.  It is uncertain, at the time of this reproduction, if these misspellings, typographical errors, and grammar appear in the original journal, or not. Joseph Reid’s original journal is in the possession of his grandson, Dr. T. Reid Jones.

 

Joseph Reid’s record of his travels during his tour of duty during the Civil War, although it mentions few, if any, persons by name, should be a valuable resource for those of us who’s ancestors served with the 8th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry, during that period of the war; for it paints a very descriptive picture of each day’s weather, scenery,  and mood.

 

Co L, 8th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry was captured and confined in Libby Prison after the time of the close of this diary. He was always reluctant to talk of his prison experiences, which were too, horrible to describe.

 

Joseph Reid was born near Dayton, Ohio on Feb 15, 1843 the tenth out of eleven children born to John and Nancy Ann (Marks) Reid.. He enlisted on August 9, 1962 in Co. “K” 44th Ohio Volunteer Infantry for 3 years. The 44th OVI was reorganized later  as the 8th Ohio Volunteer Cavalry, of which he served in Co. “L”. 

On April 12, 1864 he was promoted to Sergeant at Phillippi in the 8th OVC, was captured on January 11, 1865 at Beverly, VA with 582 others of his unit.  He was imprisoned at Libby Prison at Richmond, VA, paroled on February 15, 1865, and discharged on May 30, 1865 at Clarksburg VA.

Joseph Reid died on May 01, 1917 in Kansas City, MO as a bookkeeper.  After being widowed after the death of his first wife he married again and was the father of six children .

 

 

Sergeant Reid begins:

 

Here you will find a slight description of the State of West Virginia as far as I have traveled over it, the Lynchburg Road in particular.  Being armed and equipped at Charleston,  Kanawha Valley, we start

 

Sunday,  May 29th ,  A.D. 1864.

A dense fog hanging like an impenetrable gloom over valley and hills from the Kanawha to the Elk River completely shut out from view the surrounding world.  This Sabbath morning constitutes an important epoch in the 8th Ohio C.  Although unconscious, as soldiers usually are, yet on this morning commenced a march for distance, difficulty,  and daring , has not perhaps been surpassed by the march of any other army since the war commenced..  At 4 o’clock a.m. reveille sounded by the shrill bugle notes aroused a sleeping camp, having been previously notified that we would march on this morning.  We quickly sprang from our humble beds, prepared and partook of a hasty breakfast, fed and groomed our horses in the best possible manner;  packed up such articles of clothing and bedding as were absolutely necessary and secured them on our saddles; also feed for our horses for five days; putting into our haversacks ¾ rations for the same length of time.  Thus prepared, with carbines slung over our shoulders and cartridge boxes filled with twenty rounds of  cartridges, carrying with us twenty rounds in our pockets.

 

At 6 o’clock A.M   the bugle sounded Boot and Saddle, which means to saddle your horse and prepare for the march.  Military Com. All was hurry and apparent confusion until 7 a.m. at which time the regiment was regularly formed and each battalion and squadron occupied its ranking position in line- all things ready.  One loud shrill bugle blast sounded and the march commenced, our splendid regimental band discoursing some stirring martial music in its usual happy and impressive style, as the long column, with guidons flying, moved imposingly over the valley and through the adjacent town.  Soon we were out of sight of what had been our temporary home, with our backs turned upon loving hearts and anxious eyes in a distant land; our faces toward the enemy of our country and the scenes of martial conflict; our lives in our hands, trusting only to our unknown destiny.  Some poor fellows were on their last march, as the sequal will show.  

Our route was up the celebrated valley of the Kanawha on the right bank of that beautiful river, whose name it bears, and whose waters rolled gently at our feet as if unconscious of the martial tread upon its shores.  The valley of the Kanawha is a narrow strip of level land, varying at this point perhaps from one to two miles in width; lying

principally on the north side of the river, and walled in on either side by ranges of high hills, or mountains rather.

 

At about 10 o’clock A.M. we passed through the little town of Malden- saline salt works-7 ½ miles from Charleston.  There were to be seen many of the destructive consequences of war.  The works, although now rebuilt to a great extent, were almost destroyed during the time of Wise`s retreat from this region.  Many chimneys of what had been dwellings, tall and ruined smokestacks of different kinds of machine works stood as silent monuments of the relentless character of this hated rebellion.

 

Two and a half miles farther up the river we came to Camp Piatt, a  place happily chosen for the purpose.  The first scene that met our view was a group of soldiers gathered together in the shade of some apple trees near an humble dwelling, with a venerable looking gentleman seated by the side of a rude table in their midst and all mingling their voices together in a song of praise to the God of Battles.  This venerable old gentleman was the Chaplain of the Regiment, a personage which I must say to the disgrace of our regiment, does not belong to its rank.  At this place, we halted, unsaddled and watered our horses and partook of a scanty dinner of hard bread and coffee.

 

At 2 o’clock P.M. the bugle sounded the well known command of Boot and Saddle; accordingly we saddled up in all possible haste (as is always done) and were soon moving forward again, the weather being clear and warm.  We marched slowly, riding and walking alternately so as to favor our horses as much as possible.  Our journey was still up the valley with pretty much the same characteristics, except the valley grew narrower and the hills higher in many places it did not exceed two or three hundred yards in width.  The valley is very level, and from the growth of vegetation appears quite fertile.  Corn and all kinds of small grain are cultivated; dwellings and barns generally of very inferior order.  Hills generally covered with low scrubby timber, consisting of pines, cedars, oaks of different kinds, with some beech,  gums, and underbrush principally of laurel.  At 4 o’clock p.m. we halted in a beautiful little meadow on the farm of the Rebel, Colonel Tompkins.  Here we picketed our horses to the fence and prepared to cook our supper, getting our water from a nice clear brook close by, and building fires in the tall grass with dry planks torn from the fence surrounding the meadow and adjoining oats     field.  Supper over and horses watered, fed, grassed, and thoroughly groomed, we spread our blankets down upon nature`s green carpet beaneath a clear blue sky and laid down, many of us for the first time to take a soldier`s sleep in an open field.  But fatigue and low diet beget quiet sleep; so we slept soundly until 4 o’clock a.m., when we were again aroused by reveille.  The farm of the Rebel Tompkins at this place consists of perhaps 100 or more acres lying in the form of a crescent, formed by the hills retreating from the river.  This widow (as he is now dead) resides upon the premises in rather a pretty one- story house (a brick cottage) embowered in flowers and shrubbery; this is much the best dwelling seen since leaving Charleston.  I forgot to say that between this point and Charleston and still further up the river, there are many coal mines now abandoned, but in times of peace appear to have been worked to a great extent.

 

May 30th.  Morning clear and quite cool- this appears to be a leading and prominent characteristic of those regions, warm during the day and cold during the night.  At 12 o’clock M. we arrive at Loop Creek Camp.  Traveled through much the same featured country as yesterday.  Here we halted and fed our horses, took dinner, and drew four  days  half rations.  At this point are great quantities of comissary and quartermaster stores, being at the head of navigation for all kinds of boats.  This place is  distant from Charleston 31 miles. Day clear and warm.   At 4 o’clock p.m. we arrive at Gauley Bridge, or the point where it once stood, the bridge having been burned by the Union forces of the 9th  Va under A. J. Lightburn.  This point is at the confluence of the Gauley and New River, 38 miles from Charleston.  Below are to be seen what is called the great falls of  New and Gauley Rivers.  Here the whole bed of the river seems to be solid rock over which the water leaps from ledge to ledge with roaring sound, constituting a fall of perhaps 8 or 10 feet at every three or four rods.  Here the 11th was stationed for some time.  Across the river on the south side arises the Cotton Mountain, occupied by Gen. Benham while General Rosecrans occupied Tompkins farm and Gauly Mountain,  some two miles distant up the river.  New River for some miles is a very rocky stream, the bottom being almost solid stone, through which the water by its continued action from age to age seems to have worn its channel; in fact, the river seems to have directed itself by this slow but sure way, cutting from the top of the mountains hundreds of feet through solid rock to the level of the Kanawha, leaving on either side almost perpendicular cliffs resembling solid masonry, in some places hundreds of feet in height.  The river here is very rapid, coming to the contracted channel through which its waters are forced.  At  Gauly we crossed the river by ferry, the water being very deep.  This consumed considerable time, as there were near 1,000 men and as many horses to be transported.  The task, however, was accomplished in a much shorter time than might be expected, and we resumed our march up the New River, there being scarcely room enough in many places for a road between the river bank and the rocky cliffs piled up in close colossal grandeur hundreds of feet above our heads.  Many rocks of enormous size having become disengaged from the cliffs above by the action of frosts and other actions of nature, have tumbled down from their giddy height and now lie upon the rocky bed on either side of the road.  One I noticed in particular had fallen from a great height and by its own momentum had been carried across the road some distance where it lodged in the foundation of an unfinished barn, still remaining therein.

 

At about 5 o’clock p.m.we encamped for the night between the Hawks Nest and Camp Ewing, nine miles from Gauly Bridge.  The Hawks Nest is a cliff of rockzs  said to be 1750 feet in height.  A few hundred feet further up the river is another point of rocks, a cliff projecting out from the mountain, said to be 900 feet  perpendicular, called Lovers Leap.  Connected with this is a romantic story told by the natives (or some of them) as follows.  Years ago a young  romantic descended from the walks of poverty courted and won the heart of a young and beautiful girl whose parents were of the FFV`s and so opposed the union of these loving hearts.  They were driven to despair, but true and genuine love never yields its object, but would rather suffer death in almost any of its horrible forms than smother its tender emotions of love.  So on a bright lovely Sabbath morning in early spring, they walked together to the fatal spot, and there locking themselves in each other`s fond embrace, their lips pressed together in an affectionate kiss, leaped from time into eternity, being dashed to pieces on the crags below, mingling their hearts blood together upon the rocks which received their lifeless forms beneath.

 

May 31st,  A.D.   1864.    Morning cool as usual.  Started upon our march at a little past sunrise, having repaired fences and as much as possible which had been torn down by horses and men during the night.  This was done because we were on the premises of a Union man, who at the time was suffering for opinion`s sake in Libby Prison, his wife and family still remaining on the farm.  As the day advanced weather became hot and sultry.  Along this road contending armies had made their desolating marks.  All along were to be seen the ruins of hundreds of buildings- fences burned, fields and orchards destroyed; in short, a general desolation of everything that goes to make up the property of a country.  Scarcely a person or a domestic animal was to been seen between Camp Ewing and Gull Mountains.  Encamped one mile up one side of the last named mountain in a field of 8 or 10 acres in which the timber (principally chestnut) had been deadened   with the axe preparatory to clearing off the ground, as was the practice in Ohio in many parts.  During the day our Battalion guarded a wagon train then on the mountain, which occasioned great delay.   Being loaded with rations and ammunition together with a general assortment of Quartermaster stores.  The road being rough and very steep, the mules exhausted and stubborn, much stalling and consequent stopping of the teams was the result.  At this the drivers grew impatient, Swearing desperately, and beating the tired and jaded mules most cruelly.  Many times I saw a stout driver or soldier to each mule in the team, each with a wagon whip or club in hand, hollering, swearing, and beating his particular mule in the most savage manner, until finally the poor animals, becoming   nerved by the vigorous application of the stimulating process, by a pull altogether would move the load a few feet or rods at most, only to plunge into a dilemma equal to the one preceding, and to be subjected to the same exhilarating process.  Many times we assisted by lifting at the wheels or by pushing behind the wagon.  In this way we began the ascent of Big Gull Mountain, which is eleven miles over, 7 miles ascending and 4 descending.

 

June 1st.  Reveille at 12  o’clock a.m. Morning clear and cool. As the day advanced, it became very hot.  Continued the ascent of the mountain, riding and walking alternately.  From the summit of Big Gull Mountain, the eye is greeted with one of those romantic and beautiful views peculiar only to mountainous regions. On every hand were to be seen the different peaks of the mountains, lifting their heads high above the valley below, with deep defiles and rocky gorges between them separating in all directions and in all possible forms, whilst far to the Eastward are to be seen the long ranges of the Allegheny Mountains, rising in grandeur one above another until they appear to reach the sky.  Crossed the Little Gull Mountain- 3 miles over, and  encamped for the night at Meadow Bluff, 85 miles from Charleston and 15 from Lewisburg.  The valley at this place seems to be adapted only to grazing, being low and rather marshy.  No particular changes in the features of the country.  In many places over the mountain, the road had been blockaded at different times by felling timer across them.  All was clear,  however, at this time.  Agriculture- but little attention.  Mountains, as usual, covered with timber of inferior quality; much underbrush, and in many places rocky and bare.

 

June 2 d.  Afternoon warm with some rain.  Country hilly.  Crossed Brush Mt and at 11 o’clock a.m. encamped 4 miles northwest of Lewisburg, 100 miles from Charleston.  At Meadow Bluff and at this point, some of our squadron became sick and returned to the rear.  The depredations of bushwhackers became frequent.  We found the telegraph line between here and Charleston cut in many places this side of Meadow Bluff.  Here we joined the forces of General Avrel and Duffa, estimated at about ten thousand infantry and cavalry.  Many of those had just returned from the raid against Newbern at the surrounding country under Avrel.  Numbers of those men were in a suffering condition, being dismounted, and were obliged to trudge along on foot over mountains and stony roads, which soon wore out their boots or shoes, leaving their bare feet upon the sands and sharp stones that fill the road.  The 34th OVMI and 5th VVC were practically destitute many of them being entirely barefooted with but ragged and inferior clothing of any kind, so as to make it almost impossible for them to travel to Staunton, a distance of 100 miles.  It is poetic to speak of our Revolutionary fathers leaving the bloody testimonials of their fidelity to the cause of liberty as they marched on foot over the frozen ground, and yet I do not doubt that many of these poor fellows of the 34th OVMI and 5th VVC left a like testimonial as they marched barefooted over the sharp stones from Lewisburg to Staunton during this bloody war for the defense of this liberty which the Fathers of the Revolution  achieved in the War of American Independence.

 

Country broken and stony- no convenient places for camping.  There is a very fine large spring nearby.  Timber is of a different quality, considerable of oak sugar and others peculiar to that of Ohio and other western states.  Land better adapted to the purpose of agriculture.  Soil of a yellowish cast.

 

June 3d.  Commenced our march at 7 o’clock A.M.  Morning cool,  becoming warm as the day advances.  Before entering the little town of Lewisburg, we passed by the humble graveyard containing the graves of the 44th OVI and the 36th  OVI  - thirteen in number, who fell in the battle fought in this place on the 3rd day of May, A.D. 1862 between the Union forces under General Crook and the Rebela under General Heath.  General Crook was at that time ranking Colonel.  Although the fence surrounding the yard is torn down, yet the graves remain perfect, with a headboard to each one bearing the names of the occupants.  The town has been much destroyed;, the buildings now being in a very dilapidated condition; trade of vvery kind almost entirely broken up.  Our boys were unable even to buy a plug of tobacco in the town.  At the time when our troops first passed through the town, there was but one Union man in the place.   Many buildings in the town and surrounding country have been burned down.  Between Lewisburg and the Greenbrier River is quite a level scope of country well adapted.  Greenbrier River is quite a clear, beautiful stream, about as large as the Miami of Ohio.  At 10 o’clock  P.M. we encamped for the night in a very large meadow of fine tall grass on the farm of a Rebel, one mile north of the White Sulphur Springs.  This is one of the fashionable watering places with which those mountainous regions abound.  The Springs, buildings, and grounds are owned by a firm of New Yorkers and Southern men.  They seem to have spared neither time nor money to make the place attractive.  The buildings: all around in tasteful and convenient order are erected; neat and fancy cottages for those who may wish to occupy rooms while they stay.  The groves are covered with a most luxuriant growth of grass, while lovely and well trimmed trees of pine,  cedar, oak, constitue an almost impenetrable shade.  In the center of the grounds is erected one of the most splendid buildings in West Virginia.  It is used for the purpose of a hotel.  The whole earth here emits a sulphurous odor.  The water of the springs is  warm and unpalatable, emitting an odor similar to rotten eggs.  This place is 9 miles east from Lewisburg, and although the surrounding country is strongly marked by the ravages of war,  it seems to have suffered none except in the total abandonment of its inhabitants.  It was said that in  times of peace there were not infrequently 2,000 persons assembled at this place at one time, coming from every part of the globe and for various purposes;  some for the supposed medicial properties of the springs; some for pleasures, sporting, gambling, etc; whilst a very few were in search of materials of which to enrich the storehouse of natural science.

 

June 4th.  Morning clear;  commenced raining at 12 o’clock M. and continued to rain slowly all the afternoon. Late in the evening we encamped on the lands of a Rebel on the Allegheny Mts.  Here the different regiments, as usual, appropriated thousands of rails in erecting tents and cooking supper.  Having fed our last oats at Meadow Bluffs, we now depended entirely upon grazing to support our horses.  There we found a very fine field of clover which we appropriated as fast as hundreds of hungry horses could eat it.  The officer took  possession of the mansion house (a hewed log structure)  for headquarters.  Our rations having been exhausted, considerable foraging was done;  turkeys, chickens, sheep, hogs etc. brought into camp during the night.

 

Sunday ,  June 5th.  Struck tents and commenced to move at 7 o’clock a.m.  Passed up a fertile valley along Jackson River.  Halted for dinner in a luxuriant pasture at New Warm Springs.  At this point the valley and general scenery is beautiful.  A very nice bathing place or saloon rather is here erected.  Watering basin five feet in depth, twenty feet in length and from ten to fifteen feet in width.  Many of the boys availed themselves of the luxuries of a bath.

 

Encamped for the night at Hot Springs.  Here again the scenery is beautifully sublime.  Finest quality of pasture.  Houses generally desolated.  In the little town nearby, there was a fine inhabitance.  Our squadron picketed its horses in what was once a beautiful and well cultivated garden, using the palings for cooking our scanty supper.  Here again we drew short rations; for two days hard tack, sugar, and coffee, and beef generally good, furnished by a detail for the purpose of foraging, taking all kinds of cattle that fell in the way and killing them for the army.  A few moments before we arrived, two of our soldiers were shot by the notorious bushwhackers..one killed, the other wounded.  They had been carried to an  old church nearby, where they still lay when we came up.  They were of the advance guard.  The water in those springs is quite warm; so much so that after flowing some distance, the warmth can be distinctly felt by a person while riding through the stream.  It is said that where the water issues from the ground it is sufficiently hot to boil an egg thoroughly in 15 minutes.  As to the truth of this statement, I know not.  Quite near to the stream is a spring issuing from the hill, of the finest clearest purest and most delicious water.  Weather during the day very warm.  Mountains on either side very high and steep.

 

June 6th.  Reveille at 2  o’clock a.m.  Boots and saddle at 4 ½ o’clock a.m.  Commenced moving at sunrise.  Scenery very beautiful as the sun peeped over the lofty ranges of mountains (Allegheny.)  His bright rays struggling through the gathering mist reveal his face as a ball of fire suspended in an eastern sky.  High mountains encompass us on every hand.  Soon we commenced the ascent of the principal range of the Allegheny Mountains.  As we ascended we seemed to plunge into thicker and thicker mists of fog until the surrounding world seemed to be shut out from view.  Still onward we went, higher and higher.  At length the sun began to get brighter and lighter, until the mist and fog seemed to be entirely gone and the sun shone forth in all the splendor of summer`s morning.  The scene was now magnificently grand.  Above, all was clear and bright with nothing to bound the view except the apparent union of the horizon with the distant mountains.  Below the valley was obscured by the thick stratum of cumulus clouds forming before our feet, exhibiting all that beautiful light, white and fleecy appearance which characterizes that particular formation of clouds.  As the formation went steadily on, almost every imaginary form and figure might be traced upon this constantly changing panorama before us.  Here like great piles of clean washed wool; there like the quiet bosom of some clear lake. Yonder the imaginary outline of some enormous beast could be traced, while every variety of hue and color met the view as the bright rays of the sun fell in different lines of obliquity and upon different points of this grand phenomenon of nature.  Far to the East and above the clouds could be seen the lofty ranges of the Blue Ridge Mountains,  appearing as smooth and regular as though they had dressed for the occasion.  As we descended the mountain, this cloud of mist was again entered and passed through before coming into the valley below.  As the sun rose higher and higher  the atmosphere became heated and by the law of expansion the clouds arose far above the highest peak of the mountains and floated majestically away, leaving all around bright and beautiful.  At about 1 o’clock we passed under a high cliff of rock.  There many of our regiment saw the first blood drawn by a ball in this rebellion.  One of Co F in my regiment was lying by the roadside covered with blood, shot by one of those cowardly bushwhackers who was secreted in the cliff above- the infernal wretches.  Rather would they secrete themselves on the roadside or in the cliffs above and stealthily fire on our advance or rear guard than meet us in fair fight on the plain field of battle.  Bushwhacking now became quite frequent.  We passed into a gap in the mountain called Buffalo Gap and encamped for the night in one of those rich meadows so frequently met with in those regions.  Buffalo Mountain on our right is a high and well formed mountain. 

 

June 7th, 1864.  Weather dry and very hot.  Roads becoming dry and extremely dusty.  Nothing of any importance presented except as we approached Staunton, the Union feeling began to manifest itself to a greater extent.  At some dwellings ladies were standing at the roadside with pails of water at their feet and cups in their hands from which they gave to many a fatigued, thirsty and dust covered soldier a drink of cool water, procured from some mountain stream nearby, the buckets being replenished by some other members of the family as fast as they became empty by those fair hands.  At other places, women stood at the doors of their rude huts (for men were not at home) waving their handkerchiefs, dish cloths, and other articles of like character such as came most ready to hand.  Those demonstrations they would have us receive as demonstrations of loyalty, but we were unable to tell whether they proceeded from a genuine spirit of patriotism or from a hypocritical desire to save their onions and other garden vegetables for which the boys had a particular liking and seldom failed to appropriate as they passed by.  We thought we could discover that the larger and better the gardens, the more enthusiastic were their fairowners in making these demonstrations of loyalty.

The country here is not so much broken and mountainous.  We passed through the little town of Brookville and encamped for the night with the united forces of Gens Avrel, Crook, and Duffie, nine miles from Staunton.

 

June 8th.   Arrived at Staunton, one hundred miles N.E. of Lewisburg at about 12 o’clock M.  At this point we expected a battle with the Rebels but Gen. Hunter came upon them prveiously at Piedmont, ten or twelve miles from town, completely routing them, killing and wounding many and taking some 1500 prisoners, whom we saw as we passed through the town.  They were huddled together in an enclosed lot, the same as they had prepared for Union prisoners, so confident were they of success in the approaching contest.  Staunton is a small town containing some handsome buildings with quite tasty and well arranged gardens and grounds adjoining.  It is situated about the center of the Shenandoah Valley from East to West in much the wealthiest country we have yet passed through.  The country here is under a tolerable state of cultivation.  It is quite hilly, lying in swells one above another as far as the eye can reach up and down the valley.  Wheat, rye, oats, etc., are excellent.  A great deal of corn planted yet small, but looked healthy and vigorous.  The soil throughout this valley is naturally very productive and if subjected to the intelligent  process of free labor would shortly become on of the most fertile and productive regions in the world ( and beautiful.)  Pity such a soil abounding in so many natural elements of weath should ever be cursed by the withering footprints of human slavery and thus made to withhold its abundance by the impoverishing head of unwilling toil.  This valley lies rather below the Allegheny Mountains and also the Blue Ridge;  principally on the west side of the Shenandoah River, a branch of the Potomac, and extending from N.E. to S.W. hundreds of miles.  It is watered by many beautiful clear rivers and many other small streams, some emptying into the Potomac, and others cutting through the Blue Ridge Mountains and finally emptying their waters into the Atlantic.  The scenery here is delightful.  From any one of the eminences near town can be seen hills covered with waving grain; valleys green with luxuriant meadows and pastures; orchards promising abundant crops of apples, peaches, pears, cherries, and other kinds of fruit.  Looking to the Westward, the lofty peaks of the Allegheny are distinctly seen, while to the Eastward are as clearly defined the distant range of the Blue Ridge issuing successively higher until at last one higher than any which preceded seems to hide its head in the clouds.

 

June 9th.  Weather clear, warm, and dry.  Remained in camp for the purpose of washing and repairing our clothes and for foraging, our rations being entirely exhausted.  Quite an amount of meal, flour, bacon, and beef was brought into camp and turned over to the Comissary, and thence issued to the different companies.

 

June 10th, A.D.  1864.  Weather as yesterday.  Struck tents and early in the morning commenced our march for Lexington on the north bank of the James River, a distance of 35 miles from Staunton – much farther, however, the way we travelled than by the main route.  The combined armies of Hunter, Crook, Avrel, and Duffie amounted to about 30,000 cavalry and infantry.  This army advanced on Lexington by four different roads, completely sweeping the valley.  Our division under Avrel occupied the extreme right, Duffie the left, and Generals Hunter and Crook the center.  As we passed along, the once beautiful valley appeared to be one endless camping ground, much destruction of property followed in the wake of this army, as this vast body of men and horses subsisted almost entirely by foraging the country through which they passed.  Fences were thrown down and burned, meadows were eaten off by the horses, great fields of waving grain and growing corn trampled under foot by moving columns and infantry; horses taken out of barns, stables, pastures, and wherever they might be found; flocks of sheep and herds of cattle driven off; cribs, barns, mills, etc. emptied of their contents; gardens stripped of vegetables; dwellings entered and many things taken:  everything eatable taken therefrom, whilst the distressed mother, with tears in her eyes, begged with all the earnestness of maternal love that the last morsel of bread might not be taken from her starving orphan babes.  These may be enumerated as some of the consequences which followed the march of this army from Staunton to Lynchburg, and the retreat again to its several bases of supplies.

 

June 11th.  Reveille at 3 o’clock.  Morning clear and cool, as is usual in this valley.  At sunrise, a Rebel who had been arrested at Greenbrier River by the 2d Va Cavalry for the murder of a Union soldier was tried and found guilty, and suffered the extreme penalty of the law by hanging until he was dead upon a small tree in a wheatfield near camp.  His history, as related by those who heard it, is as follows. He was a man somewhat advanced in years, a man of wealth owning some 2600 acres of land, and property besides.  The murdered soldier went to his well to get a drink and to fill his canteen with water.  Whilst thus engaged, the old Rebel slipped up behind him and struck him on the head with an ax, then pulled out the soldier`s revolver and shot him several times.  The rebel`s daughter, standing witnessing the horrible scene, with a heart filled with much the same spirit that prompted the damsel of olden times to demand the head of John the Baptist in a charger ran into the house, procured a shovel of hot embers, and coming quickly up, threw them into the face of the dying man.  After he was dead, his body was chopped up by this old fiend and thrown into an old well in order to prevent detection.  But the voice of the soldier`s blood cried from the ground.  The criminal was arrested, and after the facts had been clearly established, he humbly confessed to all the facts stated and offered as the price of his ransom 25,000 dollars in gold, an amount which he was amply able to pay.   This the Colonel of the 2d Va C obstinately refused, and promptly ordered the execution of the bloody sentence, which was accordingly done by a squad of men detailed for that purpose.  Whilst hanging upon the tree he bore upon his breast the insignificant inscription, “The murderer of a Union soldier”.  The old reb`s name was Crees. 

 

About 10 o’clock P.M.  the command crossed the north branch of the James River, passed the Jordan Springs, which is rather a pleasant appearing place.  On the left, in a well arranged ground, is a very large hotel, large enough to accomodate a great many visitors.  On the right, is a frame building, perhaps 40 by 60 feet in dimension, used as a bathing saloon.  In the center of this building is a pool of the finest and clearest water I ever beheld, twenty or more feet square, which can be filled to any desirable depth.  Along the side of the pool are rows of small rooms for such as indulge in the luxuries of a bath.  We arrived at Lexington late in the afternoon, a circuitous route of more than 50 miles from Staunton.  Here some Rebels were camped, but a few shells from our artillery soon dispersed them.  They retreated in the direction of Buchanan, after which the town surrendered and we marched in quietly and in order.  From many of the most prominent buildings white flags were floating in token of surrender.  Our brigade camped one mile south of town in a large meadow adjoining some fields of the finest wheat.  Lexington is a beautiful little place, containing in times of peace, 1000 inhabitants.  It contains some very good dwellings,  being the native town of some of the most influential dignitaries of the Southern Confederacy.  The Military Institute, situated in the N.E. part of the town, is a large stone structure of the most substantial architecture.  The surrounding country is well adapted to the business of agriculture as well as to that of grazing.  Small grain of every kind, good meadows of the best quality.  A great amount of corn planted, and generally looking well, much of it having been recently plowed.  Although none could now be seen in the fields, fugitives from labor, of whom a great many came into our lines, say they planted and tended the corn while their masters were in the Rebel army or had fled to the mountains with their best horses and other articles of value to escape the Yankees.  Many of those fugitives find employment in our army in the capacity of cooks, teamsters, etc.  Many others follow our army, subsisting as best they can, hoping ultimately to reach the land of the free.  Scenery much the same as at Staunton.

 

Sunday, June the 12th.  Remained in camp during the day.  Weather very warm.  About 10 o’clock a.m. thick clouds of dark smoke, accompanied by loud explosions, were seen descending from the place, which slowly spreading out over the face of the Heavens, hung like a dark pall over the conquered town.  This phenomenon was occasioned by the burning and blowing up of the Military Institute by order of Major-General Hunter.  The scene of destruction was continued throughout the day, as fire was applied successively through the day to the superb dwellings of General Stonewall Jackson, Governor Fletcher, General Smith, and other Rebel dignitaries of the South, Civil and Military.  In the cemetery of the town reposes in an humble grave all that was mortal of the eccentric and noted Rebel General Stonewall Jackson.  At the head of his grave stands a flagstaff 15 or 20 feet long.  From this a Confederate flag was floating over the grave as our troops entered the town, but no sooner did the brave boys behold it than did they dismount, rushed into the solemn ground and tore down the dirty rag, tore it into shreds and trampled it under their feet.  Incensed are the loyal Virginians of everything that savors of treason.

 

June 13.  Reveille at 12 o’clock M.  Commenced moving at 3 o’clock a.m. in the direction of Buchanan, a small town on the James River, distant 32 miles from Lexington on a direct route, but some 52 miles by the road travelled by our brigade.  Here again we expected to be opposed, but they again fled before our advancing column, burning the bridge across the James River in their hasty retreat toward Lynchburg.  In their retreat they set fire to the bridge even before their own forces got over.  Fire from the burning bridge was communicated to the adjacent buildings, which continued to spread until many of the best structures in the place were wrapped in one general conflagration, continuing more or less violent until arrested by our forces.  We followed the river about one mile above town and went into camp on the farm of Rebel Congressman Anderson, in view of a tanyard said to belong to the Rebel President, Jeff C Davis.  Weather clear, dry, and very warm.  Road becoming very dusty.

 

June 14th.  Remained in camp.  Weather in all respects resembling yesterday.  Some of our horses having become unfit for service, a squad of 30 or 40 men under a captain was detailed to scour the surrounding country in search of horses and also provisions.  While upon this trip, several incidents occurred worthy of notice ( as we travelled continually over the mountains, for rebels were in the vicinity.)  We saw an old negro slave riding alone upon the mountain before us. We halted him, and as he was riding a pretty good horse we politely invited him to ride along with us to camp.  He complied, appearing, however, somewhat reluctant and somewhat confused.  As we rode along he related to one of our members in a rather intelligent way the following particulars.  He said his master was a very old gentleman, lived in the valley below- pointing at the place; that he owned a large plantation and many slaves, most of whom had run away; that a few hours ago the Yankees had visited his master`s house, captured his two young masters and taken all the horses his master had except the one that he was on; that his master had allowed him to take that one and provisions enough for several days (which he was carrying in an old sack) and going into the mountains to secrete himself and horse and remain there until the Yankees had gone.  He also said the white folks told him that the Yankees could never come there.  No longer than the Sunday before his master told him that if the Yankees did come, they would kill at the darkeys in the country;  but that he should not be afraid-  that the Southern men had met them in the valley- that they came upon them while they were drunk and killed them all.  Again he said that the slaves were told that the Yankees burned the town of Buchanan and the bridge across the James River.  These statements were made to all slaves.  At one point in the road and a little to the left, upon an eminence before us, at one of those log huts peculiar to mountain regions, we saw persons in an apparent state of confusion, and hearing someone calling us (we supposed) without knowing the cause, we swept up the hill in a rapid gallop, with arms loaded, primed, and ready for immediate use.  On arriving at the top of the hill, we beheld an old lady clothed in black, with pale face and clasped hands, kneeling at the root of a shade tree, while upon the dilapidated porch, clothed in the same apparel and in the same attitude, was a young and beautiful girl of perhaps “sweet sixteen” with frightened countenance and disheveled hair, making the most violent gesticulations and uttering the wildest screams, appealing to us in the name of all that was sacred not to hurt her sick father; protesting in all the earnestness of filial affection that he had never done anything against the Yankees in all his life.  We assured her that that was not our mission.  Kind words and gentle treatment soon assured confidence and restored her to a state of quietness, when she told us that she had been taught to believe that the Yankees were a barbarous people, killing in the most cruel manner all who might chance to fall into their hands.  Her statement much resembled those made by the slaves before named.  We took our departure in a short time, leaving these people thinking no doubt that the Yankees were not so bad after all.  One old gentleman with an honest appearance told us that he with quite a number of his neighbors (giving their names) had from the commencement of the rebellion voted steadily against every measure looking to secession, that their property had been seized by Confederate authority, their sons pressed into the Rebel army, and they obliged to hold their peace.

At 4 o’clock p.m. we returned to camp with five horses and quite an amount of provisions and forage as the fruits of our day`s travel.  Dixie country is naturally good; wheat and grass excellent, corn fair but small for the season. One of our scouts that had been with us for several days was detected as a Rebel spy, confessed his guilt, and was conveyed a short distance out of camp and was shot.

 

June 15th.  4 o’clock a.m. started on our march for Lynchburg, a distance of 55 miles from Buchanan, but as before a much longer road travelled by our brigade.  We marched down the James River a few miles, thence in a S.E. direction across the Blue Ridge      Mountains at Atos Peak and encamped for the night six miles West of the little town of Liberty in a wholesome and fertile valley.  The country over the mountains generally an unbroken wilderness.  Mountains high and steep, covered with scrubby timber, consisting  of pine, oak, etc., with an unusual growth of smaller underbrush of all kinds.  The few dwellings passed were generally desolated.  The peaks of the Atos are high peaks of the Blue Ridge, nicely formed and quite steep and running up to a great height.  One of them crowned with a great kock  was distinctly in view of our moving column from

 

Wednesday until 12 o’clock M. of the following day.  Liberty is a small town containing 4 or 500 inhabitants.  In time of peace it is distant from Lynchburg five miles.  Some of the best buildings in the town have been converted into hospitals for the accomodation of the sick and wounded of Gen Lee`s army.

 

June 16th.  Reveille at 2 o’clock a.m.  Our march was much retarded by bridges being burned across streams, whose channels were so deep as to render it impossible to cross until they had been rebridged.  Day clear and very hot.  Clouds of dust arising from the road envelop the entire command.  Country comparatively level, with large uncultivated farms.  Mansion houses few and of inferior architecture.  Soil much less productive than in the Shenandoah Valley, appearing in many places to have been worn out and abandoned, and little else than beds of black and dew berries.  In some places, however, considerable fertility of soil is discernible.  The earth in many places is of a reddish color, not infrequently nor unreasonably, pulverized bricks.  At 5 p.m. our regiment, the 8th Ohio V C was halted and prepared to fight on foot, marched in front of our horses about a quarter of a mile, formed in line of battle in an old pasture field.  No enemy appearing, we soon marched back to our horses, mounted, rode back a short distance and went into camp in a barren field near the road.

 

June 17th.  Weather as yesterday, dry and very warm; horses and men almost suffocated by the thick clouds of dust stirred up by the thousands of hoofs travelling the road towards Lynchburg.  Skirmishing in our front.  At about 4 o’clock p.m.  our center came upon the enemy near Lynchburg.  Charged them and drove them about one mile with small loss to our command.  Darkness put an end to the contest, and we encamped for the night near the scene of action, and awaited the dawning of another day to renew the action.  The 8th Ohio V C supported the 1st Ohio Battery, suffering no loss, tho many barely escaped.  Col Moore was himself knocked down by a piece of exploded shell but was not seriously hurt.

 

June 18th.  The sun arose bright and beautiful over the scene of conflict.  No sooner had his red light streaked the eastern skies than the spiteful report of musketry  in every direction was heard.  Soon we were startled by the cannon`s deafening roar, bursting like a clap of thunder from a cloudless sky.  The 8th OVC partook of a hasty breakfast and was ordered into line, which was formed in a field recently cleared and planted in corn.  Here we prepared to fight on foot; that is, the first, second, and third dismounted, the fourth remaining on their horses with those of the dismounted while they would fight.  We advanced some distance and awaited orders. Then we were ordered back, mounted our horses, and marched forward and took our position in a cornfield, where we were held in reserve during the day.  The booming of cannon on our right and left and center, where our regiment was formed, was almost incessant until about 11 o’clock, when the enemy appeared on our center.  The artillery and musketry now became much more rapid.  Soon loud shouts from our boys indicated that a charge was being made.  The roar of cannon, the bursting of shells, the cracking of small arms, accompanied by the rattling of arms, the clatter of hoofs and the shouts of the combatants, as regiment after regiment surged forward to the scene of slaughter, constituted a scene terrifying in the extreme.  Soon the thick clouds of smoke and dust obscured the battle field, while grapeshot rattled in the timber nearby and angry shells came screaming and bursting over our heads, wounding and killing many.  Every few minutes some poor fellow could be seen staggering back toward to the rear, either alone or with some comrade assisting them, according as his wound was more or less severe, whilst others still worse might be seen borne away on army stretchers, painting the rough canvass with life`s ruby fluid as they were fast completing the last scene of war`s bloody drama.  Finally the enemy was driven back about 1 ¼  miles, when the battle ceased except by artillery at long range.  The enemy being strongly reinforced during the day by the arrival of General Ewell`s corps from the vicinity of Richmond, a hasty retreat was ordered by General Hunter, which commenced at sunset, the trains and much of the artillery having moved earlier in the day.  Our retreat was in the direction of Liberty.  For miles the road was completely blockaded by long columns of cavalry and infantry, all moving in one irresistible way from the field of battle.  At 1 o’clock in the night, our regiment halted, the company to which I belong standing picket for two hours, when we were ordered to the regiment and commenced the march until sunrise, at which time we halted near the little town of New Bedford.

 

Sunday, June 19th.  Almost constant skirmishing in our rear continued on our march to Liberty (before named,) the enemy pressing our rear during the day.  At about 4 o’clock p.m. we arrived at the afore named town; at this time the enemy`s fire becoming so hot that a part of the PV and a part of the 34 OV and the 8th OVC were ordered back to the rear to engage the enemy.  We dismounted, marched back about one mile, took position on a rising piece of ground in view of the enemy in an open field beyond the range of our pieces.  They soon moved from this position, however, and formed in the timber on either side of the road.  We constructed temporary breastworks from fences, from which we patiently awaited their advance.  Soon our skirmish line came in and the enemy appeared in numbers greatly exceeding ours.  All at once a sheet of flame leaped from our barricade of rails, accompanied by the spiteful report of hundreds of carbines, whilst a cloud of blue smoke curled above our heads.  The unfriendly greeting was soon returned by the almost simultaneous discharge of hundreds of Enfields which sent their leaden messengers of death whizzing above our heads and about our feet, knocking the dirt, gravel, and splinters thickly around us.  Thus the battle commenced and continued in one continuous roar for more than 60 minutes, but soon it was seen that from the enemy`s superior numbers they were enabled to outflank us on the right and left, which they were rapidly doing.  The command to march in retreat was accordingly given and we fell back some distance.  The enemy raised the yell and charged after us double quick, but we rallied behind a rising piece of ground, reloaded our pieces, advanced to the top of the hill, and greeted them with a volley so deadly as to completely check their advance.  Here we continued the fight; being strongly pressed upon right and left, we again fell back to a convenient position where we again rallied and checked their advance, charging forward to a convenient position to fire and retreating to load.  In this way we continued the fight for two hours and five minutes, when, our ammunition being entirely exhausted, and ourselves by fatigue and the excessive heat of the sun, we retreated slowly from the field, carrying with us most of our dead and wounded beyond the town.  Thus ended one of the fiercest and most deadly contests of the war, taking into consideration the numbers engaged.  We lost in killed and wounded and missing 73 of our regiment, about one-fifth of all that were engaged; one-third of all the officers either killed or wounded.  We returned to our horses, mounted, and rode back a short distance and encamped for the night.

 

June 20th.  Arose very early, hastily partook of a scanty breakfast, took up the line of march toward Salem, a small town on the headwaters of the Roanoke, distant from Liberty by the road travelled by us fifty miles.  The railroad through this region leading to Lynchburg was completely destroyed for miles by our forces.  In our march over the Blue Ridge Mountains we passed into a gap called Blue Gap.  There is a splendid valley abounding in the finest grass.  We halted, grazed our horses, and ate lunch- little articles of food as we chanced to have.  The enmy, who had been dogging us all the forenoon, now became particularly annoying.  Gen George Crook, well knowing the advantageous character of the position, drew his force up in line on the commanding points with the gap and patiently awaited the enemy approach; but they, being well aware of the nature of the position selected, did not choose to meet us, but contented themselves with picking up the stragglers of our rear, of which I am sure they captured quite a number.  The enemy failing to attack, we again took up the line of march.  No sooner did we commence moving than did they commence their cowardly system of bushwhacking.  The march was continued, notwithstanding, until sunrise the next morning, when, arriving at the town of Salem, we halted for the purpose of grazing our horses and getting our breakfast (of such as we chanced to have picked up on the road the night previous, such as potatoes and onions-but very, very, few.)  Weather extremely hot, roads in many places very dusty, mountains high, steep, and barren, covered with timber and under brush as described before.  Many of our horses being exhausted from excessive heat and fatigue, were abandoned on the mountains by their riders, who were compelled to continue the toilsome march on foot, carrying with them on foot their guns and accoutrements and other articles indispensable, such as camp equipment.  Many of the poor fellows from exhaustion fell to the rear and were gobbled up by the enemy.

 

June 21st.  The enemy made a dash on some artillery that was passing through a gap or gorge in the mountain, capturing three pieces and destroyed some five or six; also causing our forces to destroy several more and a number of wagons to keep the enemy from getting them.  Our regiment was hastily formed in line of battle and after moving several times over the mountain, came upon the enemy, charged, and completely routed them.  After this they did not make their appearance in any considerable number.  We continued our march to the little town of New Castle, where we halted, grazed our horses, and took dinner, or at least went through the motion, for we had not much to eat.  Then in a N.E. direction through a mountainous region until after dark, when we encamped on a comparaticely level piece of ground high up on one of the spurs of the Allegheny Mountains.  Here several of us were detailed for the purpose of burning wagons and harness, in consequence of the mules being given out. This, however, had been done for days before as mules and horses became unable to travel.  The wagons that were drawn by them were destroyed by cutting the spokes and setting fire to the bed filled with such combustible matter as might be conveniently had.

 

June 22nd.  Commenced that march at 1 o’clock A.M.  Passed through an unbroken wilderness of some seven or eight miles.  Our route lay over high ridges and thro deep dark gorges with a dense gloomy forest, very thick underbrush, crowding the road so that the column could scarcely pass as it marched by fours.  We moved at a trot, observing a religious silence.  Not a sound was heard amid the gloom save the tramp of horses and the rattle of arms and the occasional and half suppressed tongues of commanders.  Thus we hastened foward, expecting at every defile through which we passed to see the lonely forest illuminated by the blaze of Rebel guns; but we were agreeably disappointed, being permitted to proceed upon our desolate journey in peace.  At length, we began to emerge from the solitary wilds.  The glorious sun with his soft mellow light looking in upon the deep solitude and dispelling the thick gloom, revealed to us beautiful little streams, mountain dwellings, small but fertile valleys; and as he ascended the Eastern skies, all nature seemed to put on a more cheerful aspect.

 

June 23d.  Morning clear, bright, and cool.  As the day advances it becomes hot and sultry in the valleys.  Our march was over high ranges of uncultivated mountains covered with worthless timber, the whole exhibiting but few of the elements of thrift except in the valleys.  These were small but fertile, resembling in this the rich oases of the great South of Africa.  The few dwellings passed were of the most primitive character with huge stone and clay chimneys.  Prevailing timber different spices, pine and oak.  At 1 o’clock p.m. we arrived at Sweetwater Springs.  This is another of those fashionable watering places rendered attractive by the industrious hand of art, so frequently met with in these mountains, where the wealthy and aristocratic from all points of the globe assemble by hundreds to indulge quietly and unmolested in their passions for sporting, gambling, and debauchery, rather than to promote virtue or to reclaim lost health through medical properties which waters of the springs may possess.  At this place we encamped for the night in a large meadow.  In the evening a large flock of sheep was driven into camp from which the different regiments supplied themselves with mutton of the finest quality.

 

June 24th.  Reveille at 4 o’clock A.M.  Commenced moving at 7 o’clock A.M.  Our journey was on the bank of a small stream that flows gently through the fertile valley between the ranges of mountains.  In many places the mountains and thick underbrush crowded so closely upon the road as to render it difficult for our column to pass.  The Mountain characteristics are much the same as yesterday.  Weather hot.  Clouds of dust fill the air.  Horses give out and are abandoned.  After much fatigue we arrived at White Sulphur Springs and encamped on the ground occupied by us on the 3d inst.  Bushwhackers still among us.  One man wounded this afternoon.

 

June 25th. Remain in camp until 5 o’clock P.M. at which time we took up the line of march for parts to us unknown.  At Greenbrier River, a distance of five miles, that portion of the regiment possessing horses the most efficient, was ordered back to the place where we started the evening previous.  The remainder continued its march towards Charleston.  We arrived at White Sulphur Springs at sunrise, having rested none during the night.

 

Sunday, June 26th.  Morning clear and cool.  Here we prepared and ate as best we could the few remaining articles of provisions.  Commenced our march early in a N.E. direction along a valley lying between two parallel ranges of mountains which were almost entirely covered with timber, agriculture but little attended to.  The inhabitants generally appear poor, living in log huts of the rudest character.  Farms or fields varying from two or three to 15 or 20 acres depending on the steepness of the mountains and their proximity to each other.  At 12 M. left the valley in a Westerly direction, passed around a range of mountains and entered another valley much more fertile than the first.  Grass of the finest quality.  But little grain of any kind.  2 o’clock P.M. rained a heavy shower.  We entered a thick forest of pines of the finest quality.  Travelled through an unbroken forest for some distance, until 6 o’clock P.M. when we arrived at a small farm of 15 or 20 acres, where we went into camp for the night, closely hemmed in by mountains of considerable heighth.

 

June 27th.  Reveille at 4 o’clock A.M.   Entered a dark, narrow, dismal, stony gap in the mountains, five miles in length- a cold rocky gorge.  High forest covered mountains and cliffs of rock of colossal grandeur standing face to face on either side of a narrow defile.  Containing an almost impenetrable forest on either side of pine, oak, and hemlock, with their think dark foliage constituting some of the characteristics of this unredeemed region.  Add to these an irregular mountain stream with its turbid waters rushing through the heaps of ill shaped rocks that compose its beds and line its shores, and a narrow winding weed on either side, and a path winding its way on the stony bank, rendered almost impassable by rocks recently placed there by hell deserving bushwhackers, and you have a faint picture of Rocky Gorge.  It is said that the forests were God`s first temples, and if the devil ever had a forest temple, his Satanic majesty might in all fitmess have selected Rocky Gorge as one of his rural retreats.  Through this gorge we rode with arms loaded and primed ready for immediate use.  On our way we passed a train of 5200 wagons which had belonged to a part of Gen Hunter`s command.  At 10 o’clock A.M. we crossed Greenbrier River and ascended a high mountain; wilderness still continued except at long intervals.  At 12 M. we arrived at the little town of Hillsboro.  In this region a general change seemed to take place- land level, soil more fertile, farms and buildings larger.  Timber principally oak, sugar, with some chestnut and pine. Country adapted to grazing.  Rations scarce; lived by foraging through a country which had already been foraged by forces in advance.  Weather very warm.  At 6 o’clock P.M. we encamped for the night on Greenbrier River in a small low bottom.

 

June 28th.  Reveille at 3 o’clock A.M.  Cool and cloudy.  Marched through a mountainous wilderness of 10 miles.   Thick underbrush of laurel.  10 o’clock- weather extremely hot.  Many horse gave out and were abandoned to be shot by soldiers in the rear for that purpose.  Passed over Middle Mt.  Here we entered a much better country.  A great amount of meadow and pasture lands.  Hills and meadows abounding in wild strawberries.  Burch, beech, Sugar and Chestnut prevailing timber,  occasionally at a very low ebb.  Agriculture many have destroyed.  At 6 o’clock P.M. encamped our picket on the bank of the Tygart Valley River. 

 

June 29th.   Reveille 3 o’clock A.M.  Marched four miles and halted in a large meadow, grazed our horses and partook of a foraged breakfast.  Marched up the Tygart Valley through a grazing country.  Saw a field of wheat of about 10 acres- the largest and best wheat seen in our travel of 100 miles.  At 10 o’clock, passed a camp and earthworks occupied by the Union forces during the early part of the war.  The valley at this point is near a mile in width and continues to grow wider.  The country here begins to show some of the elements of thrift.  Men begin to be seen at their homes and at their work.  Fields of growing corn and small grain here and there met our view.  Many of the characteristics of olden times were however discernible- dwellings and barns of inferior order; water drawn from deep wells by the aid of buckets and sweeps; farming implements of the most inferior order indicate the progress the inhabitants have made.  In an old dilapidated barn stood a reaping machine, the first seen during the entire trip of more than 700 miles.  Within seven miles of Beverly, went into camp for the night.  Slight showers during the night.  People began to exhibit great evidence of loyalty.

 

June 30th.  Arrived at this point at about 10 o’clock a.m. distant from White Sulphur Springs 105 miles.  Beverly is a small town situated on the east bank of the Tygart Valley River at the foot of the Laurel Range of mountains, the town containing at all times considerable comissary and quartermaster stoes.  It possesses many advantages as a military post and has been occupied by our forces almost the entire time since the war began.  The commanding positions in the vicinity have been fortified by earthworks of different kinds.  From these the town and valley could be held against greatly superior numbers.  On the S.W. of the town is an eminence of considerable height containing an area of 10 or 15 acres.  It is completely encircled by a ditch- a trench from 4 to 6 feet in depth and varying in heighth from 15 to 50 feet from the base of the hill.  Outside of this and at a distance of 30 or 40 paces below, is a barricade of bush composed of appletree, mountain oak and other bushy timber placed in a line with their boughs toward the front and cut and prepared in such a way as to make it almost impossible to storm the works.

We pitched our tents south of the town on a level dry portion of the valley.  Between us and the town are the winter quarters of some troops quartered here last winter.  They are constituted of poles, round or split, and covered with clapboards and thoroughly daubed with mud or clay.  Adjacent to our camp is a graveyard containing a great many graves, marked generally with rough stones or boards with simple inscriptions.  The longevity of these mountaineers can here be distinctly seen, there being quite a few who have deceased at the advanced age of from seventy to ninety years of age.  A great many soldiers have also been deposited here during the period extending from the beginning of the war up to the present time, some being buried since our arrival.  In many cases, large boards with the name distinctly written on mark the resting place of the dead.  Some of these however, there appears to be not the slightest trace by which their identity could be established.  The yard has long since been turned out to the commons.  Soldiers pitch their tents therein, with horses and cattle feeding over the graves, tramping down headboards and demolishing the newly made mounds raised over the mortal remains of dead soldiers.  In full view, S.E. of the town rises the Cheat Mountains, the history of which must forever remain identified with the history of this war.  The surrounding country is but little cultivated outside the valley.  Most of that which has been cleared out, from neglect has grown up with elders, briars, etc.  A great portion still remains in a state of nature.  An old gentleman residing in the town told me that in a N.E. direction  from the place, a distance of 13 miles intervened between the first and second farms.  Beverly is the countyseat of Randolph County.  It contains an old dilapidated jail and courthouse.  In this portion of Vrginia, there appears to be four principal ranges of mountains, extending from N.E. to S.W. almost parallel to each other.  The first irregular chain made of the Great Flat Top Mountain, Big and Little Gull, Cheat, and Laurel.  2nd, the Alleghenys.  3rd, another rather inferior range, consisting of the Short mountains, the great North Mountains, and the Branch Mts.  And the Blue Ridge Mts.  Between these mountains are great valleys varying widely in extent and differing greatly; the Shenandoah being one of the largest and most productive of any.  These valleys are splendidly watered by numerous branches of the Ohio, Potomac, and James Rivers.  In addition to these principal ranges are numerous offshoots or spurs running in almost every conceivable direction constituting the walls of small valleys, deep defiles and rocky gorges through which rush clear beautiful mountain streams, now leaping madly over ledges of clear washed rocks; then flowing gently over the white pebbles as they reach the valley below.  One of the leading characteristics of these mountain regions is the very clear cool water that gushes from the rocks of the roadside, leaping down the descent in little rivulets, uniting with each other until their combined waters form surging rivers and roaring cataracts.  Again, the primitive character of the country and its inhabitants constitute another leading characteristic.  As the bird now builds its nest under the eaves of some rural dwelling, constructing it after the same mode as one built by one of its progenitors on the rafters of Noah`s Ark; so do these mountaineers in the erection of their dwellings, follow after the same unimproved style of their Fathers in the settlement of Jamestown.  Log houses and great stone chimneys constitute a rule to which there are but few exceptions.  Barns and other buildings of like character are seldom met with except in the Shenandoah Valley, and even then of inferior order.  The Old Moss Covered Bucket which Hung in the Well, that has become poetic by reason of its primeval character, still graces the wells of these or the poorest of these inhabitants of the mountains.  The clothing of many of the inhabitants is of the coarsest fabric of homespun.  The gay red flannel worn by our people more than 20 years ago still grace the backs of these Virginians, so far is this people behind the fashions and spirit of the age. 

 

Since this date, there have a great many things transpired which would be of interest to you, but I have kept no diary since our arrival here; so what I say now will not be dated so correctly.

Well, we started some three times from here to join the regiment, but each and every time we were ordered back by General Kelly- God be with him for that; for the remainder of the regiment are in the Shenandoah Valley and are fighting almost every day.  Their loss in killed and wounded since we left them, or they left us, has been 40 and there are only 300 of them.  Our luck runs thus.  Capt Allen, with three companies of the same battalion went to Huttonsville, 12 miles distant, for the purpose of picketing or opening the advance post, and they were the advance post, for they had not been there long until the Rebs slipped up on them and captured the whole kit without even alarming the pickets.  They took all the horses and camp equipment and all the pocket knives and watches, in fact all the valuables possible; and only took 11 men with them- the others they sent back to camp without even their boots, hats, pants- in fact, everything possible they made them pull off.  This ends Capt Allen`s career, for he is now under arrest, and such will be the case for awhile.  This surprise happened Aug. 25th, 1864.

Since then, Capt Furrough, Company A 8th OVC, went to Shaver`s Mountain, 14 miles S.E. of here, and was surprised and all were taken but themselves, horses and equipment.  The Captain and one Srgt Willis Langly and one private were taken with them, but Langly afterward got away and has come to camp.  Four men were badly wounded- one Sergt Harry Esty, and three others, one of which received 5 wounds; two of which received 2 wounds; one of which received 1 wound.

 

Sept. 23rd, 1864. Such has been the career of this detachment of the 8th OVC.  And so ends my history.  Think what you may, but I for one like the life of a soldier in most respects.

 

Sergt. Joseph Reid, Company L, 8th OVC

Beverly, W. Va.